Every year manufactures come out with new equipment such as fish locators, trolling motors, kickers etc… These items are designed to enhance your ability to catch fish. I have rigged all my past boats and will be rigging my 2010 Tuffy 1890 Osprey. I would like to share my rigging knowledge with you, the following tips should help you, make this process easier. Another great resource for gathering installation information is the internet, go to one the fishing related web sites, just post a question about your particular boat and what you are trying to accomplish, almost always someone has been there and done that to offer assistance. As always before you start, be sure to consult your install and owner’s manual for details on the particular piece of equipment you are installing.
Electronics and Engine Monitoring Systems
Let’s start with the electronics, I will be installing Humminbird Side Imaging units on my boat this year. To install the bow graph, I mount mine on a mounting system with an extension long enough to raise it up, this helps to minimize neck strain, making it easier to reach and operate. Pick a mount that is sized big enough to hold the graph steady in rough water. I assemble the graph and mount, and then I attach it to a 2” x 6” board. This allows me to sit in my typical fishing location and move the unit around to find the most efficient mounting location, when located I then use fasteners big enough to secure it solidly and I also verify the area used for mounting is solid enough, if not, I add some backing material and washers . Some trolling motors can be ordered with a built in transducer if so, consult your trolling motor manufacture for the correct adapter plug. If you do not have a built in transducer or are installing a Side Imaging unit you will then have to get a mounting bracket that will allow you to mount the transducer to the motor, be sure to route the cable in such away to prevent damage (see illustration) and away from the power cable to prevent electrical interference. If the unit you are installing has a built in GPS, try and locate the GPS antenna as close to the bow graph as possible, because when you mark a waypoint, it will give you the most accurate representation of your current position, make sure it is unobstructed from above and route cable in such a way that it is away from motor power cable.
Now to the console unit, hold the unit up and find a location that allows you to view it without taking your eyes off of where you are going. If you are going to be viewing this unit while running a kicker take this into consideration too, this may require an adjustable mounting bracket or arm, use a mount that is sized to the unit you are installing. There are a couple of mounting options for transducers depending on unit and manufacture. I will be using 2 transducers, a 2D and a Side Imaging transducer this method of installing will require a splitter cable on the Humminbird unit I am using. I mount the 2D transducer in such a way that it will allow readings at high speeds, and the Side Imaging transducer up higher on the transom. I do this to prevent damage to the larger and more expensive Side Imaging transducer. I also use a transducer mounting board, so if you need to move the transducer further than the mounting slots will allow, you just drill holes in the mounting board not in the hull. Be sure to silicone the screws were they go into the hull. Finding that perfect position for the high speed transducer may require a couple of trips on and off the water to get a quality reading at all speeds. When mounting the Side Imaging transducer, imagine if you will the signal coming straight out the sides, you do not want anything obstructing this plane or you will get interference, what I have done is doubled up the thickness of the mounting board to clear obstructions. On fiberglass boats you can mount the 2D transducer inside the hull, this will require the appropriate media to bond it to the hull, in my experience I have lost some sensitivity after doing this. If you have a unit with a GPS receiver, mount the GPS receiver as close to the transducer as possible. Be sure to route the GPS receiver cable away from any power cables.
Another item that I am installing is a system that will allow graphs to share info via a communications link, most of the graph manufactures have a system that will allow graphs to share certain information, consult the manufacture your graphs to see what is available. The Humminbird graphs that I am installing use a system called “Interlink”, it consists of a Interlink Module and the communication cables that you run between the 2 graphs, it will let me share waypoints, routes and position between 2 graphs.
I have selected Mercury outboards on my new boat. I also have chosen to upgrade the engine monitoring to a system called “SmartCraft” made by Mercury Marine, this system allows me to monitor a number of engine functions, such as engine rpm’s, trim angle, fuel consumption, water temp, water pressure, alarms and more. There are a number of different gauge configurations available, the gauge set up I chose, is called the “SmartCraft MercMonitor with ECO-Screen” it shows you precisely where to adjust the engine trim angle and throttle position to attain the highest fuel economy possible, then turns it “GREEN”, plus all the other vital engine information all in one gauge. Most engine manufactures have an engine monitoring system available, consult with your dealer or engine manufacture to find out what is available for your engine.
Trolling Motors, Batteries and Chargers
I will also be installing a 24 volt MinnKota Terrova with the I Pilot feature on my boat this year, and mounting it on slide bracket to simplify removal if needed. I like to mount the shaft as close to center line of the boat as possible, this aids in straighter tracking of the boat, you may have to relocate the bow light further back on the bow to facilitate this. When installing the motor, I will cover the bow platform with tape, this will allow marking of the mounting holes and when moving it around it won’t scratch the deck. A couple of things to consider, make sure the shaft clears the side when it is deployed and the head doesn’t over hang the side of the boat when stowed. I also install a shaft stabilizing bracket to lock the shaft in place preventing damage to the head assembly when running across rough water by hitting the gunnel.
Another critical rigging item are the batteries that will power your trolling motor and boat. Do you want a wet cell or dry cell battery? What size of battery, 27, 29 or 31 series? I personally use an Odyssey 31 series dry cell battery, my recommendation is to go with largest battery that will fit into the battery compartment. I have changed out battery trays to accommodate the largest battery possible, make sure to have a system strong enough to hold the batteries in place while running rough water. To charge the batteries, I prefer an on board charger, I have chosen to install a Minn Kota 3 bank 30 amp charger, 2 banks for the trolling motor batteries and 1 for the starting battery.
Rod Holders
Rod holders are an important part of your boat. I use rails that are mounted on the gunnels front and back, this allows you to mount your rod holders on the rail with the correct adapter, rails will allow you to move the rod holders around to fine tune the location without drilling any additional holes in the boat. I also use extensions to raise a couple of them up and stager the rod heights. Choose a solidly made rod holder that is appropriate for your style of fishing, I found that rod holders made by Cannon fit these requirements for me.
Kicker Motors
I will be installing a 9.9 hp Mercury Pro Kicker engine. Be aware that the location of the kicker can greatly effect the handling of your boat, so before you bolt it on permanently, clamp it on the transom and take it out on the water and run it at varying speeds see if you have any odd handling issues do to the additional weight, it may require you to move it to other side. Location may also affect the loading characteristics of the boat, so be sure to check that it loads straight putting it squarely on the trailer. If you go with tiller controlled kicker, and you determined which side of boat you want it on, verify that the tiller handle clears the main engine and gunnel, after the correct location is determined, bolt the kicker to the transom to mount it securely, again be sure to use silicone on the bolt holes. I will also install an engine tie bar and a remote electronic throttle control, this will allow me to steer the kicker from the steering wheel. I then have the ability to use my kicker to back troll or troll from the console. Some boats and engines may require a transom plate or a separate power tilt device the Mercury Pro Kicker has the power tilt feature built in.
Selecting the correct propeller
An important item that I do not overlook is the propeller. Not all propellers are the same, a prop in a 19 pitch in brand X will not be same in a 19 pitch brand Y. Selecting the correct prop for your boat can not only enhance your speed and handling, but also safety when running in rough water by powering over waves. For my boat and motor combo the Mercury Tempest in a 21 pitch works great in all water conditions, after testing different styles and blade configurations the Tempest worked the best I discovered. Selecting the correct prop can be trial and error, be sure to take notes of each prop as you test them, rpm’s at WOT, hole shot, planning speed and handling characteristics. The internet sites are a great resource for this info, and so are the manufactures websites. Mercury has the prop selector page, which will give you good starting point, some dealers will have a prop demo program which will allow to test and to find the correct prop.
Websites
http://www.mercurymarine.com/
http://www.tuffyboats.com/
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/home.aspx
http://www.humminbird.com/
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/
http://www.cannondownriggers.com/
