For me the long winter is officially over on March 21. It will not only be the first day of spring 2010, but the opening weekend of walleye fishing for me at Everts Resort on Pool 4, Mississippi River. I don’t know about you, but it’s one of my favorite trips of the year. They say you shouldn’t enjoy just the destination, but the journey there as well. I certainly enjoy the anticipation and getting ready for the opener, including the trek across Wisconsin through neat little towns like Baldwin and Ellsworth. Of course the fishing is always great, and the shore lunches of tasty, pan-fried Sauger, shared with friends; well need I say more! Here are a few items and ideas that may help you be more successful during early walleye season.
These are some of my observations and experiences that have improved my catch over the years, especially on the Mississippi.
Tackle and Equipment
You really don’t need a lot of fancy equipment for Walleye/Sauger fishing on the river. I’m going to be using a lot of blades, rigs and jigs during the opening weeks. Lead-head jigs from 1/8 to 3/8-ounce will catch most fish. H20 Precision, Evert’s, Northland, and Ball Peen jigs (Guide’s Choice) in a variety of colors all produce well. Dean Marshall (Evert’s Bait Shop) always has inside info on the top producing colors, size and type. Besides my favorite Ringworms, Paddletails and SuperDoos, I like to carry some shad bodies and scented Berkley Power Grubs during the spring. Bulking up jigs will make them fall slower, and scented plastics or tipping the jig with a small minnow can increase your productivity.
For rigging, use #4 octopus hooks such as VMC or Gamakatsu. Slip sinkers such as the Lindy walking sinker, egg sinkers or the new No-Snagg sinkers in the ¼ to ½-ounce weights. A straight hook, small green or chartreuse bead, or small hair jig baited with a lively minnow is a great, spring walleye producer when the bite gets tough.
A 6 ½ -7 foot rod with a spinning reel loaded with 6-8 pound test line will work for most walleye fishing. You can rig, jig and cast with such a rod. Many rod and reel combos will work in a medium action, graphite rod. However, the early cold water temps can lead to very subtle bites. That’s where a better quality, faster action rod can be invaluable. My favorites are;
Casting jigs/plastics in current… St.Croix EX 68MXF (6# Cortland Mono or Flourocarbon)
Casting 3/16- ¼ oz blades……… St.Croix EX 69MLXF (6# braided line)
Vertical jig Blades to 3/4oz…… * Guides Choice 56MXF (10# braided line)
Dragging Jigs/Rigs……………… St.Croix TWS 76MLXF( 6-8# braided line)
*(custom rod)
Other companies make similar quality rods. I have used St. Croix since I was a young boy and they have been awesome to me. A great bonus is the ability to “test drive“ these fine rods at Everts Bait shop, on Pool 4. Just ask for Dean.
Presentations/Techniques
Blades, vertical
Blade lures come from a variety of sources… They are all offspring’s of early designs such as the Heddon Sonar and/or Silver Buddy from the 1950s and 1960s. I was casting Sonars back when I was a kid in those days but my first vertical jig application was observed at Pool 4 about eight years ago…a boat was drifting down the river and three guys were jerking their rods up and down vigorously…”What the h*ll are they trying to do?”, I thought…
There was some animosity (and ignorance) back then about blades…Fishermen thought they were just a legal method of snagging, (including me). But then I watched Dan Olsen one day carefully work the top of the sand flats. He employed a slow lift and drop technique; just enough to cause the bait to vibrate on the upward stroke, and flutter slowly back to the bottom on a tight line. I watched him hook fish steadily all morning, when boats around him caught few, if any… I have been “hooked” on blades since that day…catching as many as 15 consecutive Walleye/Sauger. Blades really shine in high water, fast current when the fish are concentrated in the “seams” and when pressure from anchored, drifting boats scatters fish along mid river contours and breaks, like clam beds.
It is common to hook fish under the chin using this method…they like to suck the blade off the bottom by the head and frequently get hooked under the chin and in the side of their head…hence the idea that they were snagged…and sometimes they DO get snagged and, legally, should be released.
I prefer a short stiff rod for this presentation, 10/2 braided line and a #2 Duolock snap. The 63MXF rods are good but the 59MXF is better, although only available in the Avid line. Al Erickson (Guide’s Choice) is now making a reasonably priced 56MXF specifically for vertical blading…up to 1oz blades. There is a rumor out of Everts that an EX 56MXF may be released by St. Croix later this year…there goes my budget!
Blades, casting
My fellow IDOers like Eric Rehberg and Dean Marshall are some of the masters of casting/pitching smaller (3/16-1/4oz) blades. They cast the tiny lures to river eddies, bars and sand flats, fishing them back on a slow pumping retrieve…. this can trigger aggressive reaction strikes from opportunistic Walleye and Sauger when other techniques fail. I too love this method, although it takes perseverance and constant focus both visually and by feel.
A longer Xtra fast action rod and fine diameter braided line is well suited to this technique… a 70MLF will work, but the EX 6’9” MLXF is the best I’ve used for this finesse presentation. The fine tapered tip section helping to prevent the tiny blade from being “over worked” , so as to move it through he water column too fast, minimizing the action of the blade. A quality, hi visibility braided line in 6lb test/1 lb diameter is my favorite, using either Sufix Fuse or Power Pro…yellow or white.
Shore Lunch Essentials
What’s a spring walleye opener without a fantastic shore lunch? The fanciest restaurants in the world can’t compete with the taste of fresh, pan-fried walleye on the scenic shoreline of a lake or river. I recommend cooking the walleye in a large frying pan over a propane burner. There are many recipes, however, I like to coat my fillets in Gary Roach’s, Fish Crisp or Shore Lunch batter, and fry them in low fat Canola oil. Put a good 1 ½-inch of oil in the pan and make sure it is popping hot. Getting the oil to the right temperature (not too hot or cold) takes a little practice, but with a thermometer, 350 degrees is best. Be careful around hot oil; I like to use a long handled flipper or tongs. A couple of cans of pork and beans, fried potatoes and onions, fresh buns, and coleslaw, all makes for a great shore buffet.
Cold Weather and You
If you dress correctly, you can be comfortable, even during long days in cold, wet early spring weather. If you don’t dress correctly, you can get cold & wet. As you lose thermal energy, your motor skills will suffer. Warm muscles perform better than cold ones. Dress to keep yourself warm and dry. Keeping your skin surface free from dampness is one of the biggest keys to staying warm.
Many people think that preparing for rain only means the addition of a rain coat.
The selection of these items is very important, but what you wear under this outer layer is also very important. Any moisture trapped within your clothing will conduct heat away. This means that you not only have to keep the rain out, but your clothing also has to have the ability to disperse your own perspiration. When dressing for cold or wet weather fishing; dress from the inside out.
The layer of clothing next to your skin is the one you will feel all day.
Maximum perspiration zones are your arm pits, groin and feet. All these areas need special clothing. Your inner layer should be made from synthetic material for maximum comfort. It should be soft and designed to wick moisture away from your skin.
Avoid cotton…
Cotton retains moisture and has very little insulation value when damp. It also becomes a medium for fungal infections. The organisms that cause infections such a jock itch and athlete’s foot can not live in synthetic fabrics. Synthetic materials tend to”pass-through”, rather than “retain” moisture from perspiration. Nylon, acrylic and polyester do not retain as much moisture as cotton or silk. Wool is the only natural fiber that will keep you as warm as synthetics. However wool is more expensive and often less durable.
Your outer layer is your first layer of defense.
It must be water-proof, but it too must be able to dispel any moisture that might collect inside it. This is accomplished by a special membrane sandwiched between two layers of protective fabric. This membrane is porous so it can breathe. The pores are of a diameter that allow smaller gaseous molecules to escape, but will not allow larger liquid molecules to enter. Non-breathable rain gear is cheap but not efficient nor good for extreme weather.
Serious fishermen favor newer technology fabrics such as: Gore-Tex.
Jackets and Bibs by SnoSuit, and Ice Armour are some great options for March and early April’s potential for sub freezing mornings and snow, sleet or rain. I have never been too warm motoring up the river in March…don’t forget a warm hat and gloves!
I hope you take advantage of the great early season opportunities we have to offer here in the great Midwest. With the proper planning, gear, presentation and clothing, you can be out there fishing while your neighbor is still waiting for the “summer bite” to start!
Tight Lines!
Tom Gursky
