Training from 8 to 16 weeks- featuring Alex Omaha Minn Kota DR. of Pheasantry
There is no better feeling than watching your pup grow into a well trained hunting partner. Along with this, is the pride that comes knowing that you are the one that trained him. This training will be geared from when you first bring the pup home but any training session can be used for older dogs and as refreshers. My personal hunting companions have ranged fron AKC registered dogs to mutts and everything in between. It will put the odds in your favor if your pup comes from a strong lineage of hunters. You can also find great hunters waiting to adopted at humane societies and pounds. Take your time and don’t be afraid to ask for help when picking your pup. Alright, lets get started training your pup!
His new home is a wonderful new experience, all new smells and sights. At 8 weeks start with moderate restrictons. Restrict the pup to one room of the house, he will get in too much trouble if allowed to roam free. This is where the use of a kennel comes in. A travel type of kennel works well for this. Get the pup used to sleeping in the kennel. The first few nights you may want to add a stuffed toy and alarm clock to accompany him. Besides a sleeping den, use the kennel for feeding also. At meal time show the food dish to the pup while calling his name. Then place the dish in the kennel. By calling his name at meal time, he will get used to it in a short time. Other than sleeping and meals, the pup should be placed in the kennel 2 to 3 hours a day.. He will be expected to kennel on command during hunting trips, plant the seed early. When placing the dog in the kennel, use the command "kennel" or kennel up. Do this everytime.
During the 8th and 9th week, it is time for the fetch game. Remember this is a game to the pup, you want to have fun! Pick a quiet room with no distractions. Sit on the floor or kneel down to his level. Toss a small stuffed toy a short distance and command fetch. When he picks it up, clap and call his name to get him to return to your location. If he lays down or runs off with the toy, don’t be concerned. Crawl away from him while calling his name. maybe crawl around a corner, he will not want to be left alone. When he returns gently remove the toy from his mouth. Do not pull the toy away from him. the toy may snag on his sharp teeth and scare or injure him. lavish him with praise when he returns to you, let him know of a job well done. Keep the game short, the pup will tire quickly. You want to end each session on a positive note. Put the toy up out of reach when done, you control the game.
At 10 to 11 weeks, we take the fetch game outside. Again keep the session short and get down on his level, either sitting or kneeling. 10 minute sessions are about all the pup can handle at this point. Watch his tail. When the pup is starting to tire his tail will start dropping. From this point on, all fetching will be done using a bumper. Use the same commands, fetch or fetch it up- then clap and call his name to bring it back. If he drops the bumper or does not return directly, juct call and clap while backing away from him. When he returns, lay on the praise!
Week 12, we will introduce some leash training. As soon as you bring your pup home, put a web style collar on him. that will let him get used to wearing it. When starting with the leash the pup will no doubt fight it at first. No problem, when he pulls away in his own direction- just wait a few moments until he tires. Then gently pull him back to your side. The first command we are going to use is "heel". In the heel position I want the dog by my non shooting side. If I shoot right handed, I want the dog on my left side. When walking and changing direction give the heel command. At this point the pup may lag behind you. Don’t worry, he will soon move into the correct position to avoid your boot heels. When he achieves the proper position, praise him but don’t stop to pet him. You want to keep him moving in the heel position. Next we will add the sit command. With the pup in the heel position, come to a stop and give the command sit. Gently pull up on the leash while pushing the pups rear end down. After a few times the pup will respond without you having to push his rear down. At 12 weeks we will also want ot introduce your pup to gun fire. A good way to do this is at meal time. When the pup is eating, stand a distance away and fire a shot from a .22 cal. blank. If the pup is startled, move further away and fire again. As the pup get used to it, move closer until you can stand over him and fire.
Week 13, we will introduce the stay command. This is working off the heel and sit commands. With the pup at the heel, give the sit command. As he is sittng, move out directly in front of him and command stay. If he breaks, pull up on the leash to stop him. Return him to the orginal position and try again. A six foot leash works well for this training.
At week 14 we will start whistle training. The first command given with the whistle, will be "sit". With the pup on leash and at heel, give the sit command along with one short toot of the whistle. After a few times, drop the verbal and just toot the whislte. In a short time the pup will learn that one toot means sit. The pup will learn that he does not break the sit command until given a command to do so.
That leads us into week 15 and the whistle "stay" command. Since our pup is learning that he can’t break the sit command- sit and stay are pretty much the same thing. With the pup sittng on the whistle command, move out in front of him while telling him to stay. Also hold up you hand in the stop position while moving away. Again after a few times, drop the verbal command. your pup should remain in the stay posittion while you move away.At this point in the training I will use a choke style collar. A gentle tug on the leash will usually get the pups attention. If the pup breaks off command, give a gentle tug to correct and move back to the starting position. The come command is easy after this! Put down the stop sign and give some short blasts on the whislte to get the pup to come to you. (tweet-tweet-tweet) This replaces the verbal come command.
Week 16, we are going to move the retreiving game to light cover. This is going to get the pup relying more on his nose. We will also introduce the command "mark". Along with this we are going to refine his work so to speak. After the pup has gained confidence in retrieving in light cover we want to add the mark command. With the pup in the stay position, along your side- have an assistant stand out in front and off to the side of you. As the assisant throws the bumper and fires a shot- give the command "mark". This will get the dog watching the sky and the general area where the bumper falls. By having the assistant fire when the bumper is in flight, the pup will associate gunfire with something falling from the sky. Keep the pup at your side until you give the fetch command. Start with short retrieves and increase the distance as the pup gains confidence.
These are basic guidelines to help you get off on the right track of training you pup. Remember, pups will mature and learn at differnt rates. Patience and consistency are key to your success.
Don Hanson is available for one on one training of you retriever and can be contacted at http://www.in-depthangling.com
