3D West central Bowhunter 60

If memory serves me right, now is the time to run the thatcher. Once you get all the dead grass out of the way, then you can move on to the aerator.

The roller I am thinking of is a drum filled with water that is attached to a handle and can roll across the ground. The only time I have ever used one was for the prep work on a new lawn prior to and after seeding.

I do know the lawn care guys are out now starting to thatch lawns. Depending on how wet your lawn is will determine whether you should wait or start

In the spring, the thatcher is the first thing to use…….or hand rake….. ………you want to pick all the dead stuff left over from fall and winter.

Aeration is usually done in the fall. And it all depends on how much traffic your lawn gets…..if it shows signs of compaction, then by all means, give it a conditioning with the aerator.

As far as the roller……..some lawns don’t need it, others do, and probably only once a year to once every other year. If you have big dips in the lawn. you want to mix up some peat moss and topsoil, mix it together and fill in the dips, about 1 -2 inches at a time, maybe have to hit an area more that once to level it…….but the roller is good for mole runs, or just a lumpy feeling lawn. But be careful and don’t overdo it, or you will compact it…..and then you can aerate The best time to run a roller is a day after a rain, when the ground is soft, but not too wet. (again….compaction is not a good thing)..

Not an expert by any means……..but little brother is a Master Gardner, and I go to him for any words of wisdom, and he has helped me get my lawn in better shape.

June

I heard your not suppose to dethatch/power rake in the spring so you
don’t kill the new grass growing underneath last years thatch.
I think it should be done in the fall of the year.

I beg to differ used to work for lawncare company never dethatched in the fall always in spring helps the lawn grow

thatcher in spring and id do the rest in the fall

Im no pro but Ive heard you dethatch in the spring and airate in the fall.

I am a pro and I know it all ( at least thats what my wife says I think I am.)

yes thatch early and you may have to aerate both spring and fall depending on when the last time it was done. should do it every year so if not in a while i would do it both this year.

FISHINFOOL

so when do you put down the crabgrass killer?

Someone tell me what to do about the dog burn patches, I have more than I have ever seen before. Please help.

In May…….after the ground warms and the crabgrass starts to germinate…..about mid-May.

Crabgrass stuff when the lilac’s bloom. Usually early May. I don’t ever thatch or aerate. Our lawn care consultant doesn’t recommend it for the average yard. You only need to do that stuff if you’ve got a real need to.

I’d sell that stuff and invest in a good years worth of fertilizer. We fertilize 4 times a season. Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and once late fall (winterizer).

Eric

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I’d sell that stuff and invest in a good years worth of fertilizer.

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That is a broad blanket statement that definitely does not apply to all. What works for your lawn may not work for others. Soil type, grass type, amount and type of weeds, water intake, and other factors all play into what a yard needs to be healthy.

Weed control is very tricky. Depending on the type of weeds you have will determine when to apply herbicide and also what type to apply. Too early or too late, and you will end up pouring chemicals into the ground and achieve poor or no results.

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Someone tell me what to do about the dog burn patches, I have more than I have ever seen before. Please help.

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The brown patches are from the nitrogen in the urine…..you have a couple choices, cut out the spot, put down a little lime, potting soil and seed……..or wait and they will eventually recover on their own.

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Crabgrass stuff when the lilac’s bloom. Usually early May. I don’t ever thatch or aerate. Our lawn care consultant doesn’t recommend it for the average yard. You only need to do that stuff if you’ve got a real need to.

I’d sell that stuff and invest in a good years worth of fertilizer. We fertilize 4 times a season. Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and once late fall (winterizer).

Eric

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I fertilized my lawn once….I’ll never do it again. I hate mowing and have much better things to do than mow. After putting that stuff down it grew like crazy. I like it to dry up. Mow every couple weeks.

To each their own! I never mow. My wife says I don’t do it right. You know what, I think she’s right. She mows every 3-4 days. Its her time away from the kids.

ET

For weeds I go down to the farm place in Elk River and buy a gallon of Trimec sp? If I remember right it is $60-70 a gallon and you mix it with water about 20-1.I can do my whole yard,about an acre with a gallon of this mixed with water.You have to wait till later in the year till the ground warms up and it has to be sunny with no rain to wash it off.This stuff really works for weed control.

For the “Dog” spots I’ve had success washing them own with some liquid dishwashing soap diluted in a hose end sprayer followed by some granular lime spread over them by hand pretty thick. They usually clear over a period of a few weeks.

Regards,

Scott Mueller

Just to establish some credibility, I worked in the golf course business for almost 30 years. I read the entire string on this subject and noone talked about proper mowing. Most golf course grass–greens, tees, approaches, fairways–are maintained at an unnatural height, even for those hybrid grasses. They stay healthy only via intense turf management (fertilizer, chemicals, aeration, water, etc). The best way to have a healthy lawn and minimize all that stuff is cut your grass at a height of 2 3/4″ to 3 1/4″, no shorter, as often as you need to to avoid piles of ‘hay’ in your yard. Don’t water too often, but thoroughly, to establish deeper roots. Healthy grass overcomes most weeds, dog spots, etc. Light fertilization 2 or 3 times/season is all you need. Years of neglect or problem soils may require more intense correction, initially.

The shorter you cut it, the more you have to baby it.

This is a PS to my other comments. Don’t put lots of stock in what and when “lawn care guys” are doing. They do stuff based on how many clients they have to get work done for, not necessarily what’s best for the turf. At least here in Minnesota, it’s WAY too early to do anything but pick up dog poop and winter debris.

On a side note – I saw mention of “dog burn” patches. Here is a simple tip to totally prevent them in the first place.

Give your dog a couple ounces of tomato juice every day. I just poured a couple ounces in a bowl – and she lapped it right up – something in the tomato juice does something to her pee (how is that for a scientific explanation?) and the brown spots in the lawn went away completely. The dog loved it, it was cheap, and worked great.

Tim

This years West Central Bowhunter 60 will be held on August 14th and 15th with registration from 9am – 3pm saturday and 9am – 2pm sunday!
Come to enjoy the rolling hills and grasslands of the Prairie Woods Environmental Learning Center.

Little Crow Archers of Willmar & Swift County Archers of Benson have teamed up to host this 60-Target 3-D shoot.
Shoot it in one day, or make a weekend of it and shoot both days! Our promise is that you will not be disappointed!

Highlights include, Generous sized walking trails, On-site concessions, and seating deck!
Stakes for : Adult, Youth, Traditional, and Cubs
All on over 100 Acres! 90% Rinehart Targets

Full Course (60-Targets) $20 Adults ~ $15 Youth 16 & under ~ $55 Family Max
1/2 Course (30-Targets) $12 Adults ~ $8 Youth 16 & under ~ $32 Family Max

Shoot Location:
Prairie Woods
Environmental Learning
Center
12718 10th St NE
Spicer, MN 56288
GPS coordinates:
N 45° 14.716 W 95° 1.777
@1.5 Miles West of Hwy 71 on County Road 29#

Coming up soon.

3 Days… can’t wait. Hope to see you there!