“Tuning” broadheads??

  • whittsend
    Posts: 2389
    #197026

    I shot my Muzzy practice blades a few weeks ago, and they shot TERRIBLE… So I went out and bought Rage 2 blades (that have historically shot and preformed well for me) to use on my upcoming bear trip.

    I shot the Muzzy practice blades again last night just for kicks and they actually shot much better than before. I did have the practice heads mounted on different arrows than the previous shoot. They were shooting much better groups, but the point of impact was still considerably different at 20 yards than my field tips. (Of course, it was dead calm last night, and possibly windier a few weeks ago.. Maybe that was the difference?)

    My Rage practice heads are shooting very well, very similar accuracy compared to my field points.

    Questions…

    1) Do you guys do anything specific to “tune” your broadheads? (I realize a tuned bow is probably the #1 cause of “out of tune broadheads”… Any other actions besides tune the bow that you might take to get a broadhead to fly true?)

    2) When you have heads that group well but have a different point of impact vs field points, do you move your sights to that point of impact and call it good, or do you do something different?

    3) When you have two sets of heads that both group well, but head1 POI is different than your field tips, while head2 POI is the same as your field tips… All else being equal, do you VASTLY prefer the “true flying” head2 over the head1? Or are you satisfied to move your sights to POI of head1 and call it good – And make the decision of which head to use based on cutting properties (not aerodynamic properties) of the head itself.

    ….. Further side question… If you change your sights to those head’s POI at 20 yards due to “head planing”, theoretically all of your other pins will be affected by the planing as well… So you can’t assume that 20/30/40/50 yard impact points of your broadheads vs pin spacing will necessarily correlate to how your field tips shot… (e.g., you are going to have to sight in each distance again with your broadheads)… Vs a “true” flying head which should mimic field tip POI all the way to the last pin… (?)

    4) I have a few arrows that seem to “wander” a little more than other arrows, all else being the same. With my Muzzy’s, the wandering is more pronounced than with the Rage heads. Still, I have one or two arrows that will float the Rage heads about and inch or two higher than my normal ~1 inch group at 20 yards. With the Muzzy’s, it may be 2+ inches. What are the major causes of some arrows shooting well, but others not? I assume insert alignment is the culprit. Any other theories? I have heard people like to line up the vanes with the broadhead steel, but I have also heard that this theory is bunk.

    Thoughts???

    Sorry, long post, but an interesing one, I think.

    Mike

    little_g
    durand WI
    Posts: 317
    #81953

    Broad head tuning with the vanes is a joke they spin through the air anyway, what are you shooting for fletchings?

    whittsend
    Posts: 2389
    #81956

    Quote:


    Broad head tuning with the vanes is a joke they spin through the air anyway, what are you shooting for fletchings?


    Thats about what I’ve seen, too, just wondering what others think..

    Blazers.

    little_g
    durand WI
    Posts: 317
    #79588

    Ya that could be the reason for the bad flight, like I have said before my bro was having problems with muzzy and I fletched some 4 inch feather with a left helical and they flew the same as his field points.

    shednut
    22 feet up
    Posts: 632
    #81961

    If your broadheads aren’t hitting the same spot as your fieldpoints than you need to move you’re rest to bring the POI to the same spot. Could be hand torque though too….do you shoot with a glove on? I have found that I can reduce/eliminate nearly all hand torque by shooting with a thin cotton glove on. Try that before you start tinkering with sights/rest.

    dennisdalan
    St Cloud, MN
    Posts: 974
    #81963

    I have been shooting Blazers pretty much since they first came out. Switched last year to the 2″ Norway Fusion vanes. I have shot a ton of different broadheads and have had good luck with the 2″ vanes.

    TheMidwestHunter
    MN
    Posts: 124
    #82214

    #1 is that a person really needs to spin test your arrows right after you put your broadheads on. If the bh doesn’t go on square, no matter what you do…there will be a wobble to them therefore hurting your flight and your groups. Maybe your arrow was never squared straight when it was cut and the insert isn’t in true or simply your insert wasn’t glued in right. Without a spin tester, you’ll never know and causing yourself more work than you need.

    Spend the $40 and pick one up.

    les_welch
    Posts: 1007
    #82336

    Quote:


    If your broadheads aren’t hitting the same spot as your fieldpoints than you need to move you’re rest to bring the POI to the same spot. Could be hand torque though too….do you shoot with a glove on? I have found that I can reduce/eliminate nearly all hand torque by shooting with a thin cotton glove on. Try that before you start tinkering with sights/rest.


    SPOT ON about moving the rest. Make your bh’s and field points fly the same (group tune), and you will be good to go. I would also add to spin your arrows to make sure the tips, inserts, and arrow are all aligned.

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