o I switched it and the primer ball started working and it would start. However now it sits there and just revs. it act like its going to die and the rev up like it’s going to run. I cannot get it to run smooth at high rpm.
A few ideas. This is assuming that per BC’s post, you rebuilt the carb correctly and all seals are in the right place, right orientation, etc.
BTW it may help if you can tell us what brand is the engine? Mower brand means nothing, we need the engine make. Briggs, Honda, Tecumseh, etc.
1. You can test the carb’s function by starting the engine and then carefully holding the little throttle linkage plate on the carb in one place. This is the little part that controls the thottle plate in the carb.
The engine should continue to run at the same speed as long as you hold the plate in place. Opening the throttle plate a little by turning this little linkage plate should make the engine speed up. Move it slowly and carefully.
If this test does NOT work then this points to issues with the carb so see item 3. If test works and mower runs when you hold the throttle open, see 2.
2. If carb runs per above test, then you may have a problem with the throttle linkage to the governor is in the right hole on the carb side? Most carbs had multiple holes to accommodate different applications getting the governor linkage hooked up to the right hole is critical.
On the same note, make sure the linkage is assembled correctly. I can’t give more specifics than that, but for example, some linkages had a spring that slid over the top of the governor/throttle link, etc.
3. If the engine did not respond correctly per item 1 above, you probably still have a carb issue. Try these:
a. Is the float height set correctly and is the float needle moving freely with the retention clip in the proper place?
b. Did the main jet needle adjustment screw get turned in when the float bowl was being installed?
c. Is the fuel line hose cracked or split where it enters the carb?
If you still can’t figure it out, my advice would be to buy a new Chinese carb on eBay or Amazon. I believe these carbs are not knockoffs but are actually coming from the same factories that make the OEM carbs. I have compared these Chinese carbs to the old units and they often identical right down to the casting marks and blemishes.
To be honest with you, I rarely rebuild carbs any more on small 2 and 4 stroke equipment these days. It’s just not worth my time. Most Briggs and Tecumseh small engine carbs can be bought on eBay for less than $15. I’ve been astonished at how well they work for the price. In just the past few months I’ve done carbs for Tecumseh, Stihl, and Briggs engines and all of them have started in 3 or less pulls and basically run fine out of the package. Worst case was tweaking the jets for max performance and setting the idle, a 2 minute process at most.
Grouse
