Anybody have a Livescope Forward view cone angle distance chart?

I found a video where a Livescope guy tested the 20 degree cone angle for Livescope and found it pretty spot on, but he only tested at 2 distances (25′ & 50′) He found at 25′ the cone angle was 9′ wide and at 50′ the cone angle was 18′ wide. I’m too lazy to do the math, was curious if anybody has a cone angle size per distance chart (10′-100′) they possibly found somewhere?

I’m no expert but based on the math the cone width is .36 the distance based on the information you provided…

cone width distance
3.6…………..10
7.2…………..20
10.8…………..30
14.4…………..40
18.0…………..50
21.6…………..60
25.2…………..70
28.8…………..80
32.4…………..90
36…………..100

I have livescope and my experience is it isn’t even that wide of a beam. It probably is, but it seems tiny to me.

mojogunter wrote:

I have livescope and my experience is it isn’t even that wide of a beam. It probably is, but it seems tiny to me.

I agree but I don’t spend much time dialing in the settings. It would be really handy to have an optimal setting chart for different scenarios.

Matt Moen wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>mojogunter wrote:</div>
I have livescope and my experience is it isn’t even that wide of a beam. It probably is, but it seems tiny to me.

I agree but I don’t spend much time dialing in the settings. It would be really handy to have an optimal setting chart for different scenarios.

The test video I watched the guy spray painted the 20 degree cone angle on the ice, then drilled holes 25′ & 50′ away and then drilled holes sideways every foot from those distances, he then had a large piece of metal as a lure and dropped it down each hole at each distance and checked to see if Livescope could see the lure, it was pretty accurate as he could see the lure at the outside holes the edges of the 20 degree cone and could still see the lure a little bit outside of the 20 degree cone, but within the 20 degree cone the return was solid.

uninc4709 wrote:

I’m no expert but based on the math the cone width is .36 the distance based on the information you provided…

cone width distance
3.6…………..10
7.2…………..20
10.8…………..30
14.4…………..40
18.0…………..50
21.6…………..60
25.2…………..70
28.8…………..80
32.4…………..90
36…………..100

awesome, thanks for doing this!

LVS32 has 6 sonar beams on 3 separate sonar flats. Multiple frequencies of 530-1.1. This is also why you need the black box for livescope, lots on data to process. From my understanding Garmin basically merged its clear vu, side vu and panoptics together to make livescope with the LVS32 transducer. It’s a 20 degree side to side cone angle for livescope forward view.

20 degree cone angle = 1/3 of distance. Whatever distance you have for forward range 1/3 of that is the viewing width. So at the 30’ range you can see 10’ side to side or 5’ on either side of the transducer line of direction (where it pointing).
10′ = 3.3′
20′ = 6.7′
30′ = 10′
40′ = 13.3′
50’ = 16.8’

So 20 degree is the width or side to side view.

135 degrees is front to back. If the cone angle was 90 degrees you would only be able to see in front of your boat and directly underneath. The extra 45 degrees let’s you see behind the boat as well.

I have always had questions about the 20 degree cone at distance. I think the beams just start to lose strength at certain distances. Like going from 455 to 1000 plus on side imaging frequencies.

That black box is stitching together 6 beams of various frequencies.

We all know that 30-40’ mark is where live scope starts to lose definition.

Anyone willing to share their settings for how they best use theirs when looking see a lure out to 30’?

I recently bought the pole and removed the ducer from the hull mount location. I’ve only used it once on open water with the default settings.

If anyone has tips/tricks they have used that would be great.

For me, water clarity is everything… the settings I use at my cabin (clear water lake) are much different from my parents cabin (stained water lake)

At my cabin, my settings are as follows:
Gain = 65-70
Color gain = 80-85
TVG = off
Trails = off
Noise reduction = low
Color scheme = Lava

Those are the settings I can remember off the top of my head, I can see a small panfish jig casted 40’ out no problem…

Search youtube for Livescope settings, not so much for the settings numbers, but more for explanations of what each setting actually does and when it makes sense to use them, TVG is a good example of this…

Thanks…been watching some of the YouTube vids and they are scarce on settings.

I’ll start there and experiment.

Matt Moen wrote:

Thanks…been watching some of the YouTube vids and they are scarce on settings.

I’ll start there and experiment.

Hearing other peoples setting numbers is kind of pointless because each lake & conditions are so different, understanding what each option actually does will allow you to dial in your specific lakes…

I don’t think it’s pointless. Biggest issue I had with settings was over thinking everything.

First restore defaults. If your new to livescope you probably fooled with settings you should have left alone.

TVG off- unless your fishing deep (lake trout) no need to have this on. It’s always off for me.

Noise reject is always high.

Color gain 85-100. 85-90 open water and I’ve used all the way up to 100 for ice. I rarely change these numbers.

Gain—this should be the only setting you need to change when moving to different spots. Start at 50 and just work your way up.

I can say that livescope is way fussier on the ice then open water. I thought it would be the opposite.