Anchor in current

  • Evan Veire
    Posts: 16
    #1940139

    Hi all,

    This may be a basic question for most, but grew up fishing shallow lakes so I don’t have this skill set. Any tips on how to anchor in current. I generally fish alone or with my 5 and 6 y/o so it is at best a one man operation. As it happens good bites are often in or near current and as I don’t have spot lock it is pain in the xxx when I am unhooking or untangling and trying to manage the trolling motor controls. Just looking for basic advice or maybe if I don’t have the right anchoring equipment what to buy. Thanks in advance!

    eyeguy507
    SE MN
    Posts: 5214
    #1940140

    I’d start with a river anchor. find the spot on the spot and go upstream from it maybe 50′ with motor running and drop anchor. once you feel it grip, put motor in neutral and let out the line and hope she holds. spot lock is great and all but there are times where you don’t want your motor spinning in circles or using up your batteries. when there is a lot of current, anchor is about the only option. have not used mine in years but few years ago on the Rainy, the spot lock would move the boat around enough to not keep contact with the bottom.

    Matt Moen
    South Minneapolis
    Posts: 4235
    #1940152

    My $.02 is that if you are going to consistently be on the river upgrade your trolling motor. Dealing with anchors especially with kids in the boat is a nightmare. I haven’t used an anchor in 5 years. When I have our 5 year old in the boat on the river the last thing I want to do is be messing with anchor ropes.

    There are a couple of used ones listed on this site.

    If an anchor is a must the cat river anchor is the way to go. Standard anchors will not work.

    rjthehunter
    Brainerd
    Posts: 1253
    #1940174

    Get a good digger anchor. Like eyeguy said let it out and feel until it grabs. Then save money and buy spot lock. I haven’t used an anchor since I got spot lock last spring!

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6687
    #1940212

    I anchored in the heavy winds and heavy current (20-26 FOW) Friday, Saturday, Sunday…With a 8′ bimini up so catch wind like a sail.

    Cat River Anchor
    1/2″ Rope.

    Here’s the trick: Take a small wood block. Put a rope cleat on one side, and an eyelet on the other. Buy two bungees from FleetFarm, 3′ length. Attach carabiners to each end of the bungees. Connect them end to end.

    Hook one end of the bungees to your bow. Hook the other end to the eyelet on the wood block.

    Now dump your anchor in the water. When it hits bottom, attach the wooden block to the rope via the cleat. Now your anchor rope is attached to your boat via a bungee. Take the tag end of your anchor rope and attach it to your boat, but be sure there is enough slack so your bungee can stretch plenty. The proper amount of slack is no more than the bungees can handle without breaking.

    Why do this?
    When your boat lifts with a wave or wake, it is pulling on a rope. The anchor will budge and slip in most substrates. By having a bungee to absorb the lift, allowing your boat to lift, your anchor will sit gently in the bottom and not budge.

    You will essentially get 50% or more holding power from an anchor, no matter the weight or design. You also do not need to amount of anchor line out that you would without it. I let the anchor hit bottom, and maybe let out a few feet of line – like 3′. If it is blowing hurricane style like this weekend, i’ll let out 10 additional feet. Without the bungee i’d be letting out 15′ up to 40′ extra rope to help hold bottom. What all this means is less precision anchoring. More rope, less precise. Less rope, less movement. Typically with less rope you get less holding power, but not with the bungee system i describe.
    I’ve been using this for many years. Long before the anchor bungee systems were invented.

    I can anchor darn near vertical in yacht waves, and not budge.

    Before someone mentions a chain…Chains essentially do the same thing, but less effective as a bungee. But most people fall short of the amount of chain needed to compete with the bungee. It is also added weight and tears up your boat when people rub that chain on your boat. Chains are also noisy underwater and not desired.

    There’s my anchoring 101.
    Guys boasting the power of spotlock aren’t fishing the conditions i frequent or the fish i seek and the currents they reside in…let alone the length of time i might pursue. I love spotlock, but it don’t and won’t ever replace what my anchor can do. Precision anchoring is a requirement for many bites and locations.

    Lastly…A drift sock in current can be a lifesaver. Anchor out the bow, drift sock out the back. You’re essentially tied in the front and the back. Wind roaring upriver…Drift sock is a necessity. Wind blowing from the side, necessity. Light current and heavy wind…Necessity.

    I used to buy 2 to 3 anchors each year because i’d lose them. Then i fished with Brad Durick and he showed me the great Cat River Anchor…Haven’t lost one since! Last anchor you’ll own.

    gary d
    cordova,il
    Posts: 1125
    #1940216

    Remember to have a sharp knive to cut the rope if you get in a dangerous predicament. Be safe!

    Evan Veire
    Posts: 16
    #1940229

    Thanks so much for the help. I’ll stop by fleet farm today, and try to get out and do some practicing tomorrow.

    Thanks again!

    reverend
    Rhinelander, WI
    Posts: 1115
    #1940264

    Depending on the river(‘sippi, or something smaller?), and current flow. Where I could on the Mississippi, I preferred to use two anchors and anchor perpendicular to the current(sideways). Boat does much less swinging around with a two anchor system. One off the bow, one off the stern. Depending on current, a fair amount of line out as well(40’+) usually. Granted, that was down on pools 14 thru 18…

    Jesse Krook
    Y.M.H.
    Posts: 6403
    #1940282

    Are you talking about anchoring on the St.Croix above Arcola or below?

    Above you’ll find a decent current, below the only place you’ll find heavy current is in the narrows…..let out more line until she grabs!!!!

    suzuki
    Woodbury, Mn
    Posts: 18602
    #1940314

    Take note if fisherman are drifting a particular run and dont anchor there. Just drift it like everyone else. I can think of several spots on the Croix where its inappropriate to block the run by anchoring. Can you do it? Yes, but it can be upsetting to those drifting the spot.

    john_h
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 73
    #1941168

    x2 on the anchoring a spot that everyone else is drifting…

    Johnie Birkel
    South metro
    Posts: 291
    #1941232

    Maybe check this z launch out. It was recommended her by someone and I really like it. I use it all the time for solo launches on the River with no docks. I usually keep it connected to my anchor so after I launch I toss the anchor out, park the truck and ready to go. Its perfect on shore to hold the boat as it holds the tension for waves and current just like a bungee does an anchor in current. Never done it but I would assume you could rig the bungee like recommended above to absorb the shock. You would have to deal with the extra, but if it’s not all the time, not a huge deal.

    Mike m
    Posts: 237
    #1941349

    Fbrm , do you use the 16 or 20# anchor. Ive got an 18’ deep v , which falls right between they’re websites recommendation for 16 or 20 lb .thanks

    steve-demars
    Stillwater, Minnesota
    Posts: 1906
    #1941415

    This is an updated Cat Tip of the Day I did back in 2006. I thought I would add it to this post. I put it in a PDF format so I don’t know if it will work or not but I will give it a try.

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6687
    #1941451

    Fbrm , do you use the 16 or 20# anchor. Ive got an 18’ deep v , which falls right between they’re websites recommendation for 16 or 20 lb .thanks

    20

    gimp
    Posts: 198
    #1941456

    The best thing you can use on an Anchor is a 4’chunck of heavier chain.

    mbenson
    Minocqua, WI
    Posts: 1705
    #1941569

    I anchored in the heavy winds and heavy current (20-26 FOW) Friday, Saturday, Sunday…With a 8′ bimini up so catch wind like a sail.

    Cat River Anchor
    1/2″ Rope.

    Here’s the trick: Take a small wood block. Put a rope cleat on one side, and an eyelet on the other. Buy two bungees from FleetFarm, 3′ length. Attach carabiners to each end of the bungees. Connect them end to end.

    Hook one end of the bungees to your bow. Hook the other end to the eyelet on the wood block.

    Now dump your anchor in the water. When it hits bottom, attach the wooden block to the rope via the cleat. Now your anchor rope is attached to your boat via a bungee. Take the tag end of your anchor rope and attach it to your boat, but be sure there is enough slack so your bungee can stretch plenty. The proper amount of slack is no more than the bungees can handle without breaking.

    Why do this?
    When your boat lifts with a wave or wake, it is pulling on a rope. The anchor will budge and slip in most substrates. By having a bungee to absorb the lift, allowing your boat to lift, your anchor will sit gently in the bottom and not budge.

    FBRM, Can you post a picture of that rigged??? I get what you’re doing and think I can visualize, just want to make sure I am getting the mental picture right!!!

    Mark

    Jesse Krook
    Y.M.H.
    Posts: 6403
    #1941589

    Take note if fisherman are drifting a particular run and dont anchor there. Just drift it like everyone else. I can think of several spots on the Croix where its inappropriate to block the run by anchoring. Can you do it? Yes, but it can be upsetting to those drifting the spot.

    Funny you mention that. BZZSW and I were out there trolling Friday and when we popped a fish a boat scurried over to the spot to sit and vertical jig rotflol

    I love when that happens because if you weren’t catching anything vertical jiggin over there you’re more than likely not going to cathc anything where we just caught one TROLLING rotflol

    I’ve had people do the same thing to me during the league. They tail piped me until I caught a fish then they sat and vertical jigged it to catch nothing, as I had to troll out and around them because they were in my trolling line I’d catch fish out there too rotflol Don’t take note of the fact that I’m trolling catching and you’re jiggin not catching…..cracks me up everytime

    buckybadger
    Upper Midwest
    Posts: 8127
    #1941679

    Take note if fisherman are drifting a particular run and dont anchor there. Just drift it like everyone else. I can think of several spots on the Croix where its inappropriate to block the run by anchoring. Can you do it? Yes, but it can be upsetting to those drifting the spot.

    I agree to an extent.

    My biggest recommendation is that if there’s enough traffic to where you have to do what they’re doing to fish the area out of etiquette, you are better off finding a different place to fish all together.

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6687
    #1941763

    FBRM, Can you post a picture of that rigged??? I get what you’re doing and think I can visualize, just want to make sure I am getting the mental picture right!!!

    Mark

    Sure,
    Here’s a post from 2017. Just search for this thread title:

    ANCHOR BUNGEES/SHOCK ABSORBERS – HOW WELL DO THEY WORK?

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6687
    #1941774

    The best thing you can use on an Anchor is a 4’chunck of heavier chain.

    This is actually totally ineffective…Unless you want to run 30′ of rope for every 10′ of depth…In that case, the chain is still not effective, it is the length of rope creating the low angle of pull on your anchor. Also, now you’ve got so much rope out that you’ll be blowing/swinging all over the place.

    If you went to 15-20′ of chain then you have something…at that point, you’ve doubled the weight of your anchor also.
    What a chain does is it lifts and falls as the boat rises and falls with waves/wind. The end of the chain tied to your rope will lift and fall absorbing the shock of a boat lifting in the water. The anchor should stay stationary in this case as the pull on the anchor is always from a low angle. The weight of the chain must be equivalent to the force your boat will pull on it, or it’ll straighten the chain, increase the angle of pull on the anchor and move it. Simple as that.

    4′ of chain does absolutely nothing but add weight and scratch paint. More chain is just worse.

    I at one time did something similar without the chain. I ran a rope 15′ from my main anchor and added a smaller 10# anchor. Then from the 10# to my boat. When waves force the boat up, the 10# lifts of the bottom absorbing the shock, while still maintaining a low angle of pull on the anchor (Keeping it hooked into the bottom). This method is as effective as 20′ of chain. This is cumbersome however and entirely replaced by using the bungees as described.

    You will struggle to find someone who anchors more than i do in a year, all the conditions, and ways of fishing. Take the advice if you wish.

    If i drop anchor it is because i am looking for utter precision that other methods cannot achieve. Otherwise i’d just use spot lock. If you aren’t concerned with near motionless boat anchoring…Do as you please. If you want near motionless boat anchoring…do the bungee method.

Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.