I am planning on getting into some trolling this year for eyes. Not sure where to start for rod/reel set ups?
Would like to traditionally troll and mess around with planer boards etc. Not sure if a lead core set up should be the route or just a traditional set up? Anyone have a combo to cover most trolling styles? Depth control is main focus for me to learn this year.
I’m a regular long-line troller but gave leadcore a go this past fall and had some success with it on the St. Croix. I am usually a guy who tries to buy versatile gear that can be used for various situations and tactics, but after getting that lead spooled up I can say that it’s worth the extra money to have reels dedicated to lead and nothing else. I’m sure it’ll get easier with time, but it’s a challenge to get the leadcore tied properly to the backing and then the swivel on the business end. I like fishing a lot more than I like struggling to tie the Willis knot all day long.
Rods — you can spend a lot on trolling rods but it’s not necessary in my opinion. As long as the rod tip allows you to read the action of the lure you should be good to go. The Shimano TRD series comes in a variety of lengths and can be had for about $30. A lot of guys use Cabela’s Depthmaster rods are about the same price. You can also get those in combo form and save a bit.
Reels — A lot of guys seem to prefer a line counter, but I’m happy to just count the colors of lead going out. You want a traditional round baitcaster with enough spool capacity to fit your desired amount of lead. I like to have a reel with a clicker. I turn the clicker on set the reel to free-spool for minimum resistance. When line comes off your reel you’ll hear it.
You’ll get a bunch of different advice… like the chevy vs ford thing… but I got into these years ago with no regrets. Shop in Michigan pointed me to them. Small planner board walleye fishing, Lake Erie, Lake Michigan Salmon, lead core or not…. they work, and don’t break the bank
Okuma Classic Pro GLT Downrigger Rod $29
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SBE6J6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have Convector size 20 and 30 reels. The 30’s are more flexible with option for lead core. Reels are nothing special, but get all the work done just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LI5PQ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Long line I run 12′ Mr. Walleye rods up front and 6′ St.Croix rods at the helm.
Lead Core I have two 8’6″ Shimano Talora’s up front and a pair of 4′ Limit Creeks at the helm.
I like something that’s sensitive enough to easily tell when a lure is fouled out or not running right.
Also another tip for long lining is to run different colored line to easily untangle when a lure becomes fouled out and gets into another line.
So there is no issue running lead core with planer boards?
No need to spend big bucks, especially if you’re just exploring. Cabela’s offers a nice, affordable entry combo: http://www.cabelas.com/product/CABELAS-DEPTHMASTER-III-TROLLING-COMBO/1745151.uts
Also another tip for long lining is to run different colored line to easily untangle when a lure becomes fouled out and gets into another line.
Great tip Jesse
Out of the rods I have tried for long line, 3-way, and bottom bouncing (no planer board): St. Croix Eyecon ET86MMT, St. Croix Wild River WRC86MHF2, Cabela’s Depth Master, Shimano TDR, Finwick Eagle EA86M-MFC-T, Berkley BTLR862M and Okuma Dead Eye bottom bouncer 8’-6” DE-CBR-861M-T. I liked the Okuma the best.
For reels if you have the money Shimano Tekota LC can’t be beat.
I haven’t done much leadcore trolling so I can’t comment on that.
Im not a huge fan of much with Cabelas written on it but. the 8′ or 8’6 depth master telescoping cabelas rods are cheap, durable and will fit in most rod lockers. Makes it easy for a guy to get set up initially with numerous rods that will last and not break the bank.
I don’t have a preferred rod for you, but if you are going to pull planer boards you need a rod that can stand up to the pull of the boards. I broke several traditional trolling rods before I learned that lesson.
Cabelas Depthmaster combos have worked just fine for me. I have 2 shorties, (one with lead, one with braid), two telescoping 9′ rods (both with lead), and one 7′ all purpose rod. I do not run boards, and therefore only pull 3 lines at a time with lead. If I am long-lining, I only run 2 lines as I’m usually quite shallow in snaggy areas.
So there is no issue running lead core with planer boards?
Using boards with lead core is totally common. Most will avoid clipping the braid onto the board through to protect the line… running all the lead behind the board. Also, running any in front of the board can cause issues including it dropping into he water from the rod… something to avoid as well.
I’m a charter Capt. On Michigan my buddies have switched to $50 7 ft. ugly sticks #?. You want boat rods, not good grafites. A stiff rod will give you a jerky presentation especially in bigger wave, vs whippy which the rod will smooth it out. Length not to important…other than figuring you rod holders.
Line counters kinda waste of money. I count passes. LC tend to break. Lead core is a poor way to learn to control depth, to many variables. As soon as you start making any kind of turn , you LC rise n drop is big. Find a good depth dive chart, use at least 14# mono, boards won’t hold on braid. I troll leech w 10-12ft baits. Start simple. Meet trick… Flat live straight back, either very short just under prop wash or half way across the….really long.
You snag up one line and every sinking lure is going to snag
Good luck.
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