Adding an axle to boat trailer

Long story short…when I bought the boat I went with a single axle due to my parking situation and needing to move the boat by hand. That situation has now changed and I am looking to add an axle to my existing trailer.

Background – The boat is a 2020 Alumacraft Trophy 185 and with all gear/kicker/31 series AGM’s/Gas it is overloaded on the current trailer. I’ve broken 2 leafs already and shelled out bearings. The trailer is an Eagle, which just my luck, had a fire and did not reopen their facility. A new dual axle shorelander is an option for $8600, but I am not a fan of them.

I have priced out adding an axle and fabricating new fenders/etc and it is coming in at $3400-$3800 depending on part brands.

Curious to hear what others would do or have done. I have already tried finding a used tandem, but no luck. I also am not too keen on spending almost $9k on a trailer. I’ve fixed everything on the eagle as it happens and it is in excellent shape. I really like the features and robustness of the frame/etc….just wish I would have got the tandem to begin with now.

I have an 05 Superhawk 1800 . 150 4 stroke and kicker . 4 group 29s on board . Shorelander profile 2000 trailer . I’ve had no issues with bearings whatsoever or leaf springs . It does cut out the inside of the tires however . Just curious how many miles are you pulling it a year ?

isu22andy wrote:

I have an 05 Superhawk 1800 . 150 4 stroke and kicker . 4 group 29s on board . Shorelander profile 2000 trailer . I’ve had no issues with bearings whatsoever or leaf springs . It does cut out the inside of the tires however . Just curious how many miles are you pulling it a year ?

We average 10-15k miles a year, so more than most. I was told I should have ~3″ of space between the tire and fenders but can barely get my fingers in there. I would bet there is an inch or less. The inside of the fender has wear from the tires hitting it while going down the road.

Clearance was significantly better before adding the kicker and larger series batteries as well.

I wouldn’t add a second axle. I would go new or be selling the boat and starting over at this point.

I doubt it would be cost effective, but I would go with two torsion axles if possible. Leaf springs were very problematic for me. That being said sell the trailer, and buy a new trandem would probably end up being the best option.

Is adding a leaf or just a heavier spring an option?

Ripjiggen wrote:

I wouldn’t add a second axle. I would go new or be selling the boat and starting over at this point.

Care to elaborate? I’ve got $20 grand positive equity into this boat. What is the downside of adding an axle? Have you seen boat prices?? Not selling this boat for the foreseable future.

mojogunter wrote:

I doubt it would be cost effective, but I would go with two torsion axles if possible. Leaf springs were very problematic for me. That being said sell the trailer, and buy a new trandem would probably end up being the best option.

The place I got the quote from specializes in trailer modification and stated that it would look factory when done. Not sure on the axle setup. Curious as why you say sell and buy new vs investing less than 50% to get the same thing if they stand behind their work.

I am just picking your brain on the logic behind it. If they are confident the work can be done significantly cheaper than the new route, what is the advantage/disadvantage?

JEREMY wrote:

Is adding a leaf or just a heavier spring an option?

Good point. It may be an option and is worth looking into. Not sure if I can get a leaf that is heavy enough that will shackle to the 3500# vbend axle though from the limited research that i’ve done.

Look at Rigid Hitch.com the list them from 500lbs per spring to 4300lb per spring

Browndog wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>isu22andy wrote:</div>
I have an 05 Superhawk 1800 . 150 4 stroke and kicker . 4 group 29s on board . Shorelander profile 2000 trailer . I’ve had no issues with bearings whatsoever or leaf springs . It does cut out the inside of the tires however . Just curious how many miles are you pulling it a year ?

We average 10-15k miles a year, so more than most. I was told I should have ~3″ of space between the tire and fenders but can barely get my fingers in there. I would bet there is an inch or less. The inside of the fender has wear from the tires hitting it while going down the road.

Clearance was significantly better before adding the kicker and larger series batteries as well.

Gotcha. Id say my tires have 10 k on them after 2 years the edges are shot. Great tread on the rest of the tire . . I constantly get the “ your tires are low “ too from the squat . 65 psi in both . My fenders are also so close to the tire it’s crazy. I feel your pain .

I would look at finding a place that would trade in your old trailer for that new one. If your trailer is worth $6k then your only spending $3k to get what you want.

Browndog wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Ripjiggen wrote:</div>
I wouldn’t add a second axle. I would go new or be selling the boat and starting over at this point.

Care to elaborate? I’ve got $20 grand positive equity into this boat. What is the downside of adding an axle? Have you seen boat prices?? Not selling this boat for the foreseable future.

Yup seen them. Just sold and bought actually.
Downside…your adding an axle to a trailer that wasn’t originally built for 2.
I just would have a hard time trusting that work.
Don’t see how your boat is heavier than an 18ft fiberglass boat that many are single axle as well.

I would be doing what bigcrappie said if I were in this situation.

I am guessing not many have added an axle to a boat trailer, so you may get limited responses with folks that have.

bigcrappie wrote:

I would look at finding a place that would trade in your old trailer for that new one. If your trailer is worth $6k then your only spending $3k to get what you want.

I checked multiple places and the highest evaluation I got was $1200 for my current trailer. Just not a lot of options out there locally. Any of the further options want to see the trailer first and I’m not too keen on driving 8 hours to have a trailer evaluated for a deal that has a high likelyhood of not evolving.

Well unless you sell and buy a different trailer setup your best option is –
Throw a 5000lb torsion axle under there. You can get them in 0 degree thru 45 degree offsets in 15 degree increments which should be able to work with your current fender layout if you do the math correctly upfront. Facebook marketplace has lots of new/used axles or you can custom order a Lippert or a Dexter axle with the correct brake setup.
You would just need to get the correct frame/bracket/hub face ID dimensions to work with your current trailer. I know a guy that has done this before and likes cash jobs as well…

I was in a kind of similar situation a few years back, looking for a new trailer as my Ranger Trail trailer was really rusting out. It was bad enough that stuff was starting to break, the welds holding the brackets that the bunks are connected to had completely failed, parts of the trailer were feeling squishy and soft, etc.

It really is like the worst position to be in, as it’s very rare for someone to sell a used trailer that fits your boat, especially one that’s in good shape. Most trailers just live with the boat unless the boat is totaled on the water.

I wish I had good advice for you. I’d try to find someone else who’s added an axle to an existing trailer. I’m sure it’s possible, but I’ve just never ever heard of anyone doing that before. I’d be worried about paying $4k to do that and then still have problems or have something not work right. Then what do you do, go back to the fabricators? And if they can’t help you, you’ll be totally screwed on trying to sell that boat in the future. As you have some Frankenstein trailer that nobody will want to touch.

Also, will modifying the trailer cause any problems registering/transferring ownership of the trailer/title in the future?

I only say this because I was in the same spot. I’d consider:

1.) Watching facebook marketplace like an absolute hawk for used boat trailers. They come up every now and then, but DO NOT last long. I lucked out completely and found someone selling my exact same trailer for $1400. His boat was totaled by a tornado, but his trailer was safe in his garage. I went there immediately and bought it on the spot. Later sold mine for like $700 and couldn’t believe my luck. It is possible, but you’ll have to be patient and ready to act.

2.) I’d seriously think about the trade-up possibility. It’s totally sucky, but if you’re like me and need to trailer your boat to the lake every time you use it, then the trailer is equally important as the boat that sits on it. You will not be happy long term with a trailer that continues to cause problems. So, pay somewhere between 4-9k for a new or modified trailer, or use that extra 4-9k to find a boat with everything you want in it. If there was better loan rates right now, and depending on your space situation, you could probably come out ahead by buying a boat now and selling yours in the spring, but that requires a bit more of a bank roll and higher risk. Plenty of people who would be interested in that boat who may only put 100 miles a year on the trailer, at which point the single axel thing may not matter at all for them.

Either way, I recognize that’s a really tough spot to be in with nearly a brand new boat. I HIGHLY doubt that your resale value will match what you spend on a new trailer, or a modified trailer. I don’t think you’ll get much added value for a new trailer as a buyer’s expectation for a 2020 boat is going to be a nearly flawless trailer. And a modified trailer may have the opposite impact, it might scare people away.

Eagle Dual axle trailer $500 (too long but perhaps can mix and match parts)

Trailer

slawrenz wrote:

Eagle Dual axle trailer $500 (too long but perhaps can mix and match parts)

Trailer

Offer him 400 and take both axels and fenders.

Jason and Justin – appreciate the feedback. These are the kind of educated responses I was fishing for.

Jason – Do you know off hand if a 5k option is suitable for this particular trailer to get the clearance of the “V” bow? I cannot say for certain but a lot of the other trailers I’ve looked at in this class have the straight axle and not the V bend. Without putting a tape on them, they look similar.

Justin – I agree with everything you have stated. It does suck, wish I would have went the tandem route to begin with, but wasn’t sure this storage was ever going to happen. I went with the known and am pissed about it now.

I haven’t heard of many people adding an axle and most suggest upgrading to new…which I get. However, mine is so close to new the loss I will take does not come close to offsetting the cost, which is why I am searching for another option. The company I am looking at builds custom trailers and stated that they would be able to do this correctly and warranty their work, thus the entertainment of the existing upgrade.

The boat that I want will be an additional $40k at the moment, and you are correct. With the additional increase in rates/pricing I will not be pursing that in the near future.

I am not concerned about getting resale out of the trailer, but more concerned about peace of mind on a 1500 mile trip. I have taken steps to be prepared for breakdowns. Floor jack, spare leaf springs, whole hub assemblies etc…I carry enough crap to rebuild the whole suspension if needed after these headaches.

My thought was they would use the existing axle and add another using a leaf spring system. If they are able to switch to torsion axles then by all means use the existing trailer and modify it.

Browndog wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>mojogunter wrote:</div>
I doubt it would be cost effective, but I would go with two torsion axles if possible. Leaf springs were very problematic for me. That being said sell the trailer, and buy a new trandem would probably end up being the best option.

The place I got the quote from specializes in trailer modification and stated that it would look factory when done. Not sure on the axle setup. Curious as why you say sell and buy new vs investing less than 50% to get the same thing if they stand behind their work.

I am just picking your brain on the logic behind it. If they are confident the work can be done significantly cheaper than the new route, what is the advantage/disadvantage?

I think several boat companies use a 5400 lb. torsion axle on single axle trailers. I know Ranger does. You should be able to get an axle and install on your current trailer. It takes a lot of measurements but Dexter can talk you through it. I would imagine there are other companies also.

Still think there is a single axle option vs duel. Your boat is not that big and not that heavy.
You can not be the only one to add a kicker to an 18ft alumacraft.
I know not that helpful but a 300lb kicker should not make you have to go duel axle. 18 foot skeeters, rangers and warriors all use single axle.

Items to be said here that are unknown.
What is the weight of the boat, motor and contents of the existing boat minus the trailer then add in the trailer?

What is the existing trailer rated for, is it only dependent on the axle and springs for its rating? If you beef the axle and springs , will the frame, tires, brakes and bearings handle the added weight rating?

The weight being carried on the trailer should not exceed 65 to 75% of the total weight rating of the trailer. jmho

Not sure just adding a higher rated axel, to replace your existing single axel is the right way to go either. You probably would find yourself cracking the frame at the mount points.
The option of adding an additional axel, sounds good, but consider everything involved. Cost of parts, axel, fenders and tires,cost of someone doing it. Also you cant just add an axel, you would also have to cut off and remount your original axel to the appropriate location, and that would be back apx 2″ more than half your tire diameter.
Your best workable option would be to not put so much crap in the boat when traveling. Also could spend your $1500-$3000 on a quality set of lithium batteries like Ionic,and that would reduce your trailerd weight, but just don’t assume you can put more crap in your boat when traveling then.
If you only have an inch of clearance now, you need to put some of the excess stuff that’s in your boat, into your vehicle when traveling. If you don’t feel you can do that, or don’t want to do that, then either buy a new trailer, or new boat and trailer, or keep doing what you have been and expect problems on the road.
If you found someone willing to add an additional axel correctly, to include moving your existing axel also, and mounting the correct fenders for $3000, you probably got a good deal. But if they are only going to mount a new axel and correct fenders without moving the existing axel, run as far and fast from them as you can.

I would look around for a used trailer.

Musky Ed wrote:

Not sure just adding a higher rated axel, to replace your existing single axel is the right way to go either. You probably would find yourself cracking the frame at the mount points.

Totally agree^^^.

The trailer is about more than the weight rating of the axles. The trailer is a system and the axels are just one link in a chain. If you strengthen one link by adding axles, that does not strengthen the whole chain.

Everything about a trailer is engineered to the OEM weight rating. Where I see issues with trailers that are overloaded is a lot more than just axle/spring stuff. If the box frame isn’t thick enough, for example, you start to see cracks where there are bends in the box frame. That’s really common and if you look at trailers in parking lots at landings, you’ll see welded gusset plates on rigs all the time where they have cracked the frame at a bend. Also, I see re-welded spring mounts all the time, you can see where busted mounts have been redone because the boat was too heavy.

Also, I’d just point out that the second paint job on a trailer never, IME, lasts as long or looks as good as the OEM paint job. A repainted trailer always seems to me to look like a repainted trailer within a couple of years.

Brown Dog, I know it’s not what you want to hear, but I don’t think you’d be happy with the add-an-axle plan in the long term. There are too many other parts that are still going to be under-sized.

Browndog wrote:

Justin – I agree with everything you have stated. It does suck, wish I would have went the tandem route to begin with, but wasn’t sure this storage was ever going to happen. I went with the known and am pissed about it now.

Don’t beat yourself up over it too much, you likely made the right decision for the information you had available at the time.

At the end of the day, this is very much a ‘1st world problems’ situation for you, hope you can figure something out.

Agree with the other folks too, maybe some ways to cut weight in the boat that are also net positives elsewhere. I’m also surprised that the factory trailer would be so close to max weight off the lot, I wouldn’t think adding a kicker would screw you up so bad.

I mean, like extreme situation, but if you’re traveling a really long distance, what else can you remove from the boat and move into your tow vehicle? Sounds super insane, but like how much work is it to take your batteries out(or maybe a couple of them?).

I can get mine out in probably 20 minutes, would absolutely not do that often, but if it’s the difference between busting springs on a trip to Canada in the middle of nowhere, I’d consider doing it…Obviously kicker and gas aren’t so easy to detach from the boat, and depending on how your boat is setup, batteries could be a really stupid thing to have to mess with more than once a year.

Find a used trailer. I searched Facebook and this popped up right away

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Coletrain27 wrote:

Find a used trailer. I searched Facebook and this popped up right away

That is also for a 24′ Larson ski boat. I have checked every dealer/facebook/craigslist within 500 miles. I have also tried to catch people selling their boat with a tandem and giving them $$ for the trailer prior to the sale. No luck. This is why I was pondering the idea of adding the axle as a last resort. I can keep kicking the can down the road for potentially multiple years until one comes available…but was hoping for an immediate solution.

well all i saw was the ad says it fits a 21′ lund