I added tracks (replaced rails) to my 2018 WX2190. Thought I’d add some follow-up thoughts since I asked this group about tracks to begin this process. I bought all of my own items.
I looked at the major brands of track and wound up selecting 72″ Cisco brand tracks. I liked that they were just a bit thicker, but the big difference (for me) was that all of the edges are very nicely rounded. I almost went Traxstech because I wanted the mid-track entry point. Cisco will happily add the mid-point entry with a simple phone call. They add it as a special order, all the edges are rounded and they also add additional threaded “stop” points the same at the end of their tracks. This is done at no additional charge! Katie at Cisco was fantastic to work with and I received my order quickly and it was perfect. I bought the backer plates as well.
Taking off the Skeeter rear rails is a straight forward process made easier by the side storage. On the port side, I removed the front and rear slotted walls that are used for long rod storage. Easily accomplished with a T-20 Torx driver and a 10mm socket on a 1/4″ drive ratchet. My 60″ rails were secured by three bolts that had nylon insert lock nuts and a 1/8″ thick fender washer on the underside. Very sturdy! On the starboard side it takes a bit more disassembly (at least it did for me) to be able to reach where the rail bolts come through. I wound up taking off the face plate and doors which are secured by bolts and nuts (again, a T-20 and 10mm work well here) and a torx head screw in 4 places on the side. The 4 screws go into the front and back walls of the compartment. Once the face plate is off, you take out the middle shelf. I recommend only removing one side (2 T-20 head screws again). The front and back walls are friction fit (took me a bit to figure this out), so once they are out it is super easy to reach the underside of the rails.
Some tools I recommend:
1. A centering bit. I bought mine on Amazon as a set. These ensure that the hole will align perfectly with the center of the hole for the track which then ensures that your screw head is flat and flush in your track. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Y5ZLX2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. A countersink bit. This is used to widen the top of the hole in your fiberglass to make sure no spider cracks happen. Again, I bought a set as it was cheap. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076Q3YSGR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3. 3M Marine Silicone. Some videos recommend using 3M 5200, but the issue I have with that advice is that it is permanent. If I need to take off a track (maybe it gets damaged?), I don’t want to destroy my fiberglass in the process. Marine silicone goes in the holes left from the rails and in every hole for the tracks (with a small bead between holes). Even with 72″ tracks, I had leftover silicone using a 3oz tube. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/3M-08019-Marine-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B000H8W9V8/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=3m+marine+silicone&qid=1598883060&s=hi&sr=1-1
4. Shop vac. Have your helper use this while drilling – keeps the mess to a minimum.
Track install steps:
1. Align the track on the sidewall (side to side, front to back). Use blue painters tape to secure in place.
2. Have helper hold the track securely in place while drilling holes using the centering bit. You will have small holes about 1/4″ deep in the fiberglass now.
3. Remove the track and painters tape.
4. Make sure all wires/cables are out of the way on the underside of the side wall.
5. Using the proper drill bit (1/4″ in my case) that is sharp and/or new…drill through each of the started holes. Stay straight and have the helper use the vac while drilling to keep the mess under control.
6. Use the countersink bit on each hole. No seed to go nuts here, just a 1/16″ widening on the top is sufficient. Again, have the helper use the vac while drilling.
7. Clean the topside of the sidewall. I used diluted Simple Green and a microfiber cloth.
8. Silicone in each hole with a bead between the holes. Make sure to fill the holes left from the rails too.
9. Put two of the track-specific bolts into the center holes on the track and put in place. Try to drop straight down on the sidewall so you’re not smearing the silicone around.
10. Align the track and install all the remaining bolts.
11. Install backers (either track specific backers or thick fender washers) and the nylon lock nuts on the underside. Have a towel handy to wipe extra silicone off of hands and tools.
12. Make sure no silicone has squeezed out from under the track. Wipe up if it has.
Repeat on the other side.
Lessons learned would be:
1. The backer plates from Cisco were really nice and worth the extra $$.
2. Use the vac when drilling. I didn’t on the first side and it was a mess. Much cleaner on side 2.
3. Get the seats out of the way.
4. Use a container to keep hardware that is removed. It’s super easy to lose a small screw or nut down a drain hole.
5. Have a helper!! Makes life so much easier.
6. Tighten the track bolts from the underside if possible. I used a cordless impact drill with the a socket. Keeps the track from getting marred by the spinning bolt head.
7. Having a cold beer before drilling the first hole in the fiberglass makes it less stressful.
This isn’t a tough job, just a little time consuming. Took me and my buddy about 4 hours to complete including a beer/water break between sides. Very do-able as a DIY.
Now to go chase some Trout/Salmon/Walleye on the great lakes!
Scott
