A little info on Mercury motors please

  • mrpike1973
    Posts: 1507
    #2020942

    I just got my new boat it has a 25 hp Mercury 4 stroke motor tilt trim.

    Here are a few questions I have.
    When I bought my previous Yamaha motors they insisted I use ring free in the tank along with a fuel stabilizer and told I needed to bring it in for a special winterizing of the motor because it has in EFI. So I religiously did that.

    The Mercury dealer told me to use non oxy gas which I have always done. To use a marine stabilizer no ring free or other products. For storage Mercury recommends only fogging the motor if it sits more than 6 months. Dealer said to run Stabil thru it disconnect the hose let it run dry and try to use the fuel in the tank up in a mower etc. The owners manual states to run stabilized gas thru it and to spray the cylinders with a light coating of motor oil. I always stored all my motors with dry tanks and hoses.

    Personally if I don’t need ring free that would be great feel like a mad scientist every fill up trying to mix everything right.
    Also what is the difference between Mercury and Quick silver oils is it just one cheaper than the other or?

    Thanks, I take caring of the motor very seriously. Thoughts opinions? I remember a post a while ago about winterizing EFI motors pretty much run stabil and fog motor.

    Joe Scegura
    Alexandria MN
    Posts: 2758
    #2020967

    Sorry I’m no help on the Mercury.

    I have Yamahas and I’ve never done any of the above. Heck I don’t even run non Oxy until my fall fill up.

    As far as winterizing… I change oil thats it.

    I’m not sure why all of this extra stuff is recommended. Maybe someone smarter than me can give me a real answer…? Every dealer I’ve called has a different set of recommendations. So I got frustrated and now I just go with plain 87 octane. My gas doesn’t sit more than a few days though. Going on about 10 years now with no issues.

    Good luck with the new motor!

    Bearcat89
    North branch, mn
    Posts: 20766
    #2020969

    I do the same as Joe, I also run my boat 4 times a week. At least.
    Completely draining a motor always leaves room for dry rot of fuel lines and seals.

    ClownColor
    Inactive
    The Back 40
    Posts: 1955
    #2020976

    Congrats on the new boat/motor. You are doing the right thing by asking good questions as winterizing a boat /motor is one of the simplest things so no need to spend hard working money on something that’ll take a couple hours tops and no mechanics skills needed.

    This topic has about 1000 answers but one common thing you see…seems no one has issues regardless what steps you take… other than doing absolutely nothing. Change your lower unit oil(frequency is up to you), use good fresh gas ( most prefer non oxy), change plugs (frequency up to you), use a motor certified oil ( brand up to you as long as it meets motor manufacture specs found in the manual).

    Additives??? I wouldn’t go crazy with them. Research top tier gas (you should be using this in all motors). They put enough additives in there that you don’t need to add more.

    Fogging? IMO, more of a headache. I don’t know many that do and like above, no one reports issues.

    If you need to do certain things for your warranty, they might as well make them happy and do it. Otherwise the guys above nailed it.

    Forrest Melton
    Alexandria, MN
    Posts: 61
    #2020980

    I do the same as Joe and Bearcat, run plain 87 octane till end of season. No ringfree or other additives. Oil gets changed before putting it away for the winter.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3090
    #2020986

    I do the same as Joe and Bearcat, run plain 87 octane till end of season. No ringfree or other additives. Oil gets changed before putting it away for the winter.

    Ditto

    shockers
    Rochester
    Posts: 1040
    #2020987

    I had a 40 hp 2-stroke Mercury, and now have a 75 hp 4-stroke Mercury. I use non oxy cuz I figure…what the heck, can’t hurt. That said, my dad uses plain old 87 octane in his 175 Mercury Optimax and has never had an issue. I never use additives other than putting Stabil in at end of season. I never drain empty. And never fog. Change oil and lower unit at end of season. On 2-stroke, I changed plugs annually. Probably less of an issue on 4-stroke. Good luck and enjoy that new set up! Sounds like a great fishing boat!

    mojocandy101
    Alexandria, MN
    Posts: 69
    #2021004

    I’ve always been under the impression that 87 is fine as long as it doesn’t sit in your lines for awhile. If you run your boat every other day or ever 3 days, 87 is fine. If it sits for a longer period of time use premium/non-oxy. My family has never fogged our 4 strokes and I just got a new 115 mercury and don’t plan to. We run some stabil and leave the tanks full to prevent condensation in the tank before we put it away.

    Benny
    Posts: 60
    #2021017

    Dealer said to run Stabil thru it disconnect the hose let it run dry and try to use the fuel in the tank up in a mower etc

    FWIW, I wouldn’t ever run an EFI motor dry. I’ve done this on my old carbed motors all the time, but doing it on an EFI motor is a good way to burn up your fuel pump. It’s also a pain to prime the fuel system again. On my Yamaha, the electric fuel pump is housed in a vaper separation tank. There is a drain on that tank and I will manually drain it before storage. Then in the spring I just pump the bulb until it’s hard and turn the key.

    Jon Jordan
    Keymaster
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 6045
    #2021025

    I also have this same motor. Sips gas like a fine glass of whiskey. 6 gallon tank last forever.

    Agree, don’t run the gas lines dry. Change engine oil/filter and lower unit lube once a year. I’m a Seafoam believer, so I run it year around at about 1 oz per gallon.

    Good luck!

    -J.

    Adam Steffes
    Posts: 439
    #2021032

    The best thing you can do to prevent future fuel system problems is to never ever put any gas in it with any amount of ethanol…ever…period. There is no denying that ethanol with any amount of water in the fuel absolutely tears up lines, rubber components and heaven forbid it gets close to aluminum. If you have a new boat, don’t let ethanol anywhere near it. People get by with it for frequent use because they don’t let water sit in the fuel for 6-9 months at a time.

    John Rasmussen
    Blaine
    Posts: 6454
    #2021040

    The best thing you can do to prevent future fuel system problems is to never ever put any gas in it with any amount of ethanol…ever…period. There is no denying that ethanol with any amount of water in the fuel absolutely tears up lines, rubber components and heaven forbid it gets close to aluminum. If you have a new boat, don’t let ethanol anywhere near it. People get by with it for frequent use because they don’t let water sit in the fuel for 6-9 months at a time.

    X2

    Stanley
    Posts: 1098
    #2021078

    On my 115 Yamaha 4 stroke I just change the oil and gear lube at the end of the year and add stabilizer to the fuel. I run non-oxy year round but my boat only gets used on the weekend. I don’t see the need to fog a 4 stroke, you don’t fog a car if you store it in the winter or at least my dad hasn’t done it to his that gets stored and has been fine for over 50yrs.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3090
    #2021089

    The owners manual states ,,,,,,,,

    And there you have it. Follow the owners manual, no if’s, and’s or but’s. The manufacture WANTS you to be successful, they WANT you to have a good experience with their product.
    Link to some info from Mercury
    There is also, in that document, an email address for additional questions.

    Umy
    South Metro
    Posts: 1960
    #2021099

    I change the lower unit oil, use only non-oxy gas, add Stabil through it for my last trip out and then completely top off the fuel tank. I do not fog either.
    I ran my 2 stroke dry but not my 4 stroke. Runs like a top!

    ClownColor
    Inactive
    The Back 40
    Posts: 1955
    #2021105

    I’ve always been under the impression that 87 is fine as long as it doesn’t sit in your lines for awhile. If you run your boat every other day or ever 3 days, 87 is fine. If it sits for a longer period of time use premium/non-oxy.

    Always use the octane specified by the manufacture. Premium is not the same as non-oxy. unfortunately, 87 non-oxy is hard to come by in MN. If your motor specifically calls for 87, that’s what you should be running…maybe a motor head can explain if that’s true…

    John Rasmussen
    Blaine
    Posts: 6454
    #2021109

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>mojocandy101 wrote:</div>
    I’ve always been under the impression that 87 is fine as long as it doesn’t sit in your lines for awhile. If you run your boat every other day or ever 3 days, 87 is fine. If it sits for a longer period of time use premium/non-oxy.

    Always use the octane specified by the manufacture. Premium is not the same as non-oxy. unfortunately, 87 non-oxy is hard to come by in MN. If your motor specifically calls for 87, that’s what you should be running…maybe a motor head can explain if that’s true…

    From what I understand you can run any motor on higher octane but it does not benefit it to do so and if done to long it may get used to the higher octane and not run as well on lower. As far as non oxy goes I was told by small engine techs that the ethanol content will gum things up and cause problems. For the lucky guys that run 3-4 times a week may not be an issue. To me it is not worth taking the chance on it. I run non oxy in every engine that is smaller than my cars and trucks period.

    Adam Steffes
    Posts: 439
    #2021110

    This is only partially true. The manufacturer wants two things, to be in compliance from a regulatory perspective and to make money by way of selling product and not giving away money and future sales with warranty issues. Thats it. They are in business to make money and that is the only thing they want. Happy customers make more money. That said, I guarantee the engineers at mercury would rather tell you to never use ethanol blended gas, but they can’t because some places you can’t even buy it or its so scarce that no consumer will go out of their way if another manufacturer tells then its fine to run E10. The market forced their hand. My official personal stance on ethanol is never use it under any circumstance in any equipment that has a tendency to sit. The only ethanol I use is in gas powered cars that are daily driven. Other cars, boats, small engines only get pure gasoline, 0% ethanol and I religiously drain the lines on the gas pump into the pickup before putting the fuel in the other tanks.

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>mrpike1973 wrote:</div>
    The owners manual states ,,,,,,,,

    And there you have it. Follow the owners manual, no if’s, and’s or but’s. The manufacture WANTS you to be successful, they WANT you to have a good experience with their product.
    Link to some info from Mercury
    There is also, in that document, an email address for additional questions.

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1933
    #2021111

    Ask your dealer to show you where in your owners manual it tells you to run the engine out of fuel,,,,,

    HRG

    This may not be the exact wording in your manual, but I’ll bet it’s close.

    Attachments:
    1. Merc-25-4S-fuel-storage.jpg

    milemark_714
    Posts: 1287
    #2021113

    Quicksilver and Mercury are the same thing.Quicksilver is sold by dealers and big box stores.Mercury is dealer item for the most part.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3090
    #2021131

    This is only partially true.

    What part of what I wrote is false?

    mrpike1973 wrote:
    The owners manual states ,,,,,,,,

    And there you have it. Follow the owners manual, no if’s, and’s or but’s. The manufacture WANTS you to be successful, they WANT you to have a good experience with their product.

    Adam Steffes
    Posts: 439
    #2021132

    How often do people change impellers and go through the cooling system to clean up the thermostat, etc? How often for accessory drive belts?

    Jon Jordan
    Keymaster
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 6045
    #2021141

    How often do people change impellers and go through the cooling system to clean up the thermostat, etc? How often for accessory drive belts?

    About every 100-150 hours. Or end of 3 years for most people.

    -J.

    jake47
    WI
    Posts: 602
    #2021143

    Not to hi-jack the thread, but for those of you that store your boats where it stays above freezing all winter, what winterizing steps do you take?

    Adam Steffes
    Posts: 439
    #2021214

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Adam Steffes wrote:</div>
    This is only partially true.

    What part of what I wrote is false?

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Huntindave wrote:</div>
    mrpike1973 wrote:
    The owners manual states ,,,,,,,,

    And there you have it. Follow the owners manual, no if’s, and’s or but’s. The manufacture WANTS you to be successful, they WANT you to have a good experience with their product.

    None of what you wrote was false – just wanted to take it a step farther. toast

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3827
    #2021236

    I am going to offer a few thoughts here.
    when a manufacturer states an octane rating for use in their motors that is the MINIMUM rating.

    there is a point at which a motor does not benefit from a high octane rating and that usually affects motors with short crankshaft strokes and late ignition timing, why??
    A high octane fuel is made to resist high compression pressures, advanced timing, boosted intake systems such as turbocharging or supercharging and in engines that are prone to preignition because they run at very high temperatures.
    High octane fuel ignites slower and burns longer, the longer burn time is where the disadvantage is in short stroke motors as it is still burning at the bottom of the power stroke AND WILL POLLUTE THE INCOMING INTAKE CHARGE, this gets worse with higher RPMS.
    I am not kidding you when I say I have tested and seen where short stroke motors will run harder and perform better with lower octane fuel.

    So what about my two stroke engine and high octane fuel???
    this is where it gets to be a science due to combustion chamber design, squish area in the cylinder head, piston shape, the surface speed of the piston, rod length, rod/stroke ratio, bore/stroke ratio, cylinder diameter and length of stroke and initial as well as total timing advance, all of this critical in all engines but two strokes are inherently more prone to it because of their small cubic inch displacement and higher max RPMS.
    is your head spinning yet???
    shoot, we aint even discussed air cooled versus water cooled yet and yes !! it makes a difference !!
    point is, most two stroke outboards will run just fine on either 87 or 91 NON ETHANOL FUELS.
    I would however stay with high octane fuel in supercharged outboards or any high performance outboards, and yes, I run the 91 non oxy in mine.
    I must add, older outboards are not jetted properly to burn ethanol at any percentage, newer ones can as they are jetted for it or the computer controls the amount of fuel delivered in injected outboards.

    for those of you who run ethanol and run lots of it all year and its as fresh as you can get, most likely you will be okay but never store it with ethanol as you will paying a shop a visit at some point in time.

    my thoughts on additives, for those of you who believe the fuel company has your best interest in mind and personally cares for your motors as much as you do, keep drinking the purple Kool-aid !!
    the additives in fuel today are only there to help promote combustion, ignite easier depending on the time of year, and at a minimum help keep things clean, remember, these are only used at the bare minimum to meet specs for each brand of fuel.
    I wont cover the whole list of additives in gasoline as they number anywhere from ninety to one hundred twenty in number !!

    Yes, there is a place for as The Famous Grouse calls them, snake oils, I do too depending on what you are talking about and even the good ones are over used, over rated, and certainly over sold.
    I have my favorites just like everyone else and I use them as directed and only when needed.
    there are circumstances where a whole sh!tload of them are needed but those are extreme cases and not the norm.

    sorry for the long winded reply, my mind is not wired for short responses and most likely once again I derailed the thread.

    mrpike1973
    Posts: 1507
    #2021262

    HRG Point taken Thank You I plan on doing all the servicing myself after reading this it’s to simple not to and and save money for more important things like fishing gear. Thanks everyone for your help. When we saw the boat together wife and I we said this is what we want.

    Karry Kyllo
    Posts: 1281
    #2021286

    Ask your dealer to show you where in your owners manual it tells you to run the engine out of fuel,,,,,

    HRG

    This may not be the exact wording in your manual, but I’ll bet it’s close.

    I follow my manual as much as I can also, but the information you provided from your manual is contradicting. While the first paragraph says to run the fuel system dry, the last paragraph says to fill the engine fuel system with stabilized gasoline. I’ve winterized my motor with the fuel system full of stabilized 10% ethanol gasoline for the past 10 years without any issues on my main motor and my kicker. I start them in the spring and they start as well as they did the last time I was on the lake. Running the fuel system dry may be best for long term storage but for the short period of time and the low temperatures involved during winter storage up north in MN, ND, WI, etc., I don’t think it’s even an issue.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3090
    #2021297

    While the first paragraph says to run the fuel system dry,

    That’s NOT what I read. “Drain” is NOT “run dry”.

    Attachments:
    1. drain.jpg

    KPE
    River Falls, WI
    Posts: 1705
    #2021814

    Kwik trip’s premium is non-oxy (or, no ethanol added as they state, for legal reasons). Every engine I run drinks kwik trip 91 no ethanol added unless we are travelling and there’s no kwik trip around then any non-oxy or no ethanol added will do.

    Before the last trip out for the season I add stabilizer, then top off (rather than mixing in separate container). Then after last trip of season i top off completely full. This ensures no headspace is left in the tank. Condensation forms in head space and drips down into tank = water in gas.

    Non-oxy, or stabilized fuel, won’t go bad for many months. I store my boat without use for 3.5 months tops. If I were storing for 6+ months this would be a whole different procedure.

    If a dealer told you to use ring free “because it’s fuel injected” I would genuinely question their competence.

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