I have been tying trilene knots on 6lb flourocarbon to jigs, etc…..it seems I have a higher than acceptable failure when
lubing and checking the knot…and breakoffs…. I am trying 8lb flouro, but think 6lb is better for finesse fishing.
next move is to scrap my line spool and buy new….any suggestions on 6lb flouro nots….
I AM TYING THE KNOT CORRECTLY.
another question….what is the life of the line on a spool before it deteriorates????
Double Pitzen aka Shaw Grigsby knot. Problem solved.
I tie mine with a double uniknot.
I tie a simple uni knot for all line types to any lures, hooks, snaps, etc. and don’t seem to have issues with knot strength.
Should add I use a lot of 6lb Seaguar Invizx floro for my leaders.
thanks for the help !
I ll try new Seaguar and a uni knott…not sure how that is to tie on jigs…I do use a double uni on floro to braid….works good..
thanks for the help !
I ll try new Seaguar and a uni knott…not sure how that is to tie on jigs…I do use a double uni on floro to braid….works good..
I’ve had some issues with the trilene knot on flouro too. I’ve had better success with the polomar knot. However, I prefer to use the trilene or clinch knot for mono and braid.
Make sure to wet your line when you cinch down the knot. I think a lot of failures on those light lines come from heat from friction when you’re tightening it down. It weakens the line quite a bit.
Good article on knots from Infisherman.
The two simplest and strongest line-to-snap, line-to-split ring, or line-to-lure knots for monofilament and fluorocarbon are the Palomar and the Trilene (also called the double-loop clinch knot). Tied correctly they both provide knot strength of around 95 percent of line break strength. This is much better than other easy-to-tie knots like the improved clinch. My experience with these knots is a matter of testing with machines that determine tensile strength; my discussions with engineers working in the line facility at the Berkley Lab in Spirit Lake, Iowa; and extensive field experience, having used these knots for more than 30 years.
Much of the fishing world was at one point better-schooled in which knots work best. During the sportshow season, Berkley provided line-testing machines in their booths set up across North America. Anglers would tie their favorite knot and could see how it performed, as tested by the machine. Performance usually was poor. Then they were shown how to tie the Trilene knot, which subsequently would test as I said—so, knot novice into the booth, knot pro out. Of course, Berkley has also run tens of thousands of tests with even more sophisticated machines in their Spirit Lake facility, with results that back my points here.
I use the Trilene knot except when doing knot connections for drop-shot rigging, where the Palomar is superior at making a hook stand out perpendicular to the line. I find the Trilene faster and easier to tie. And it wastes less terminal line, which is a factor when you’re using a fluorocarbon leader at the end of a braid or a fused superline (like Berkley NanoFil or FireLine Ultra 8). Many anglers trim over a foot of line each time they tie a Palomar. The typical Trilene trim is 3 or 4 inches. It saves you from having to tie on new leaders in the field.
Wrapping makes a difference in how a knot performs. With the Trilene, use 5 wraps for lines with break strengths of 10 pounds or less. For lines with break strengths of 12, 14, and 15 pounds, 4 wraps work fine. Heavier lines, up to 30 pounds, need 3 wraps. Beyond 30 pounds, the Trilene tends to “knuckle up” on itself. I switch to a three-wrap uni-knot to make terminal connections with heavy mono and fluorocarbon. The tag end on the Uni-knot lays perpendicular to your mainline when it’s finished, making a straight, solid connection to lure, snap, or split ring.
It’s worth interjecting, as a matter of overall perspective, that doubling the end of one’s line and tying knots with the doubled line also produces knots with high break strengths. This is more critical in saltwater, where fish pull much harder than most freshwater fish. It’s a subject for another day.
In the North Country where pike (and sometimes muskies) swim along with walleyes, largemouths, smallmouths, and other fish, I almost always use an 8- to 12-inch section of tie-able wire at the end of my fluorocarbon to keep from getting bit off. The science of how many predatory fish see suggests that they don’t see well enough close in to be turned off by a tiny section of wire near your lure. As long as it’s a short section, it seems to become an extension of the lure, more than something attached to it and apart from it.
This is particularly true for lures moving steadily or erratically. But I also find that largemouth bass don’t mind a short section of wire on a skirted jig. Using small jigs for smallmouth bass might be an exception at times, but again, from long practical experience my findings generally suggest
I normally tie either a Palpmar or trilene knot. Actually the one I tie I don’t know the name of. Its just like the trilene knot but I pass the line back thru the loop formed by going back thru the one near the eye at the end. Here is a excellent site for watching knots being tied :
Guess the link does not work. Here is the address – https://www.animatedknots.com/fishing-knots
The science of how many predatory fish see suggests that they don’t see well enough close in to be turned off by a tiny section of wire near your lure.
Rip, do you have any links that can be shared to read this science/research? That kind of stuff can be fascinating to us fishheads and can change the way we rig our presentations.
I don’t. I just pulled an article on knots that Doug Stange wrote.
Palomer gets my vote.
The Eugene bend knot. Did great on knot wars it is my go to knot
I know you asked specifically about fluorocarbon knots, but just to offer one more idea: have you tried mono or copolymer? I used to have random breakages with fluorocarbon, from several brands and with several knots. I got sick of losing big fish, so I switched to mono and copolymer lines. That solved the problem for me. IMO, quality mono and copolymer lines are great lines and very underrated.
I know you asked specifically about fluorocarbon knots, but just to offer one more idea: have you tried mono or copolymer? I used to have random breakages with fluorocarbon, from several brands and with several knots. I got sick of losing big fish, so I switched to mono and copolymer lines. That solved the problem for me. IMO, quality mono and copolymer lines are great lines and very underrated.
I know you asked specifically about fluorocarbon knots, but just to offer one more idea: have you tried mono or copolymer? I used to have random breakages with fluorocarbon, from several brands and with several knots. I got sick of losing big fish, so I switched to mono and copolymer lines. That solved the problem for me. IMO, quality mono and copolymer lines are great lines and very underrated.
I know you asked specifically about fluorocarbon knots, but just to offer one more idea: have you tried mono or copolymer? I used to have random breakages with fluorocarbon, from several brands and with several knots. I got sick of losing big fish, so I switched to mono and copolymer lines. That solved the problem for me. IMO, quality mono and copolymer lines are great lines and very underrated.
I sgree. I todsed out all old line and started over. Sometimes when cinching a knot onn 6 lb it just stresses and breaks. Pretty small dismeter. Some of the other joining to fluoro and braid knots just dont work on 6 lb. Larger dia is fine
Double Pitzen aka Shaw Grigsby knot. Problem solved.
I agree, a very strong knot… although I would recommend a variation of this knot known as the Swindle knot. The Grigsby knot is good, but you end up with 3 tag ends all facing forward – which end up as a catch-all for grass, moss, etc. The Swindle knot you end up with 2 tags facing backwards and one forward so you don’t pick up the gunk as much. Gerald has a humorous video on the subject, that aside its a little harder to follow but you can see how he goes back though the loop at the end the other direction than Shaw.
The double Alberto seemed to work okay for me, but it seems like any friction on some of those light flouros will weaken the line. I probably look like some kind of freak on the shoreline goobering all over my line trying to keep it from getting too hot tying the knot.
I’ve had similar issues with light flouro. I’ve settled on the San Diego jam knot for 4-6lb
Unfortunately Fluorocarbon lines are more likely to break at the knot and that’s just how it is.
I line test the lines I used off my fish scale. So I get results that applies directly to how I tie my knots and on which line.
Gamma Touch .16 mm 4# line break 3# 10 oz. (palomar knot 3# 9 oz.)
Gamma Touch .19 mm 5# line break 4# 14 oz. (palomar knot 4# 5 oz.)
Pline Flouroice .15 mm 3# line break 3# 3 oz. (2011-2yr 3# 9 oz.) (2015 7 yrs 3# 7 oz.)
Pline Floroclear .16 mm 3# line break 4# 1 oz. (2012 palomar knot 4# 4)
Pline Floroclear .18 mm 4# line break 5# 14 oz. (2012 palomar knot 6#1)
Pline Floroclear .23 mm 6# line break 8# 11 oz. (2012 palomar knot 8#1)
Pline Floroclear .25 mm 8# line break 10# 9 oz. (2012 palomar knot 10#1)
ASSO Micron 3 .153 mm 4# knot break 4# 8 oz. Mfg claim break of 4.8# (2011-1 yr 4# 12 oz.)(2015-5yrs 4# 7 oz.)
ASSO Micron 3 .173 mm 5# line breaks 5# 2 oz. Mfg claimed break of 6.2#
How long the line lasts in years? Pretty amazing that fluorocarbon stuff, even just coated version. Off the same reel spool just pulled a few feet to get to somewhat more fresh line and it’s still pretty strong after 5 years. Of course everyone’s mileage may vary. That was back in 2015…and I still have some of those same lines on some reels. Just have to test them again before going fishing.
The Eugene bend knot. Did great on knot wars it is my go to knot
I’ve been using this knot for several years now and have had great success with it.
SR
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