3-Way Hovering for Walleye

Here’s what has been catching fish for me the past, well, two months.

It seems like there are times when fish just want the bait moving slowly, and right in front of them. Now that we have some dirty water, that type of slow movement is necessary for fish to find and eat you bait.

Using a simple 3-way rig with a heavy jig on the dropper and a lightweight jig on the other. Fit each with a BfishN pulsar plastic. (Or whatever plastic, minnow, or crankbait of your choosing…But honestly all I’ve ran since water dirtied is Chart/Orange Core, or White 3.25″) Just be sure the current you are in, is creating the action desired in the baits…i.e. tail wiggling.

You can do this with a single jig also, but when you are allowed more than 1, consider using a 3-way.

Locate walleye in current. You can’t do this tactic without it. Frankly, if you aren’t in current, you are not in a good walleye spot anyway.

I call this Hovering, or Wafting… Basically without moving the boat forward (OR VERY SLOWLY IF AT ALL), slip side to side in the current, never in any direction faster than 0.3 mph. your CRAWLING and keep crawling over the same area.

Select your dropper jig weight depending on the current strength. Lately i’m anywhere from 3/8 oz to 1.5 oz dropper and always a 1/16 for the other jig. I prefer to keep 15 to 45 degree line angle, speeper when the fish might be hugging some wood. Tight line angle allows me to have better control of the jig, and where i am specifically wafting my bait. Your line lengths should allow both baits to run about the same height. 1′ dropper and 3′ lead for example.

When hovering side to side, your baits are directly in front of walleye (That’s the plan anyway), wafting them back and forth in front of their faces. You can literally pick them off one by one the more you work a spot. There are times when i’ve bumped fish several times with a jig before i can buy a bite. Regardless of whether you perfectly present your bait though, sometimes fish don’t want to bite. Friday i rode out a bad bite (Well, wasn’t fast enough for the 11yo in the boat) and when they turned on we quickly got our limits…That 11yo was happy i didn’t leave the spot. Boat control is paramount as you do not want to be moving fast side to side, and only crawling forward or backward to cover an area. You’ll be in enough current that your plastics are wiggling as they should. Your navigation screen on your graph should eventually look like a ball of spaghetti lines.

What’s most important is how you control your bait. You do not want to introduce any movement into the bait, except when you slowly (DID I SAY SLOWLY) drop your rod back to “Tap” bottom. Then raise rod so jig is 4″ off bottom and HOLD STEADY. Don’t spend but an instant on the bottom.
5x or less a minute drop back and find bottom, assuming your working a break or area where current is changing as you sweep side to side…Frequent adjustments can be necessary. If you do this correctly, and slowly with no sudden movements you’ll get half you fish on the hold and half your fish from the drop back motion (Heavy jig drops to bottom-walleye bites, or trailer jig all of a sudden stops moving – walleye bites) There is a subtly that i cannot emphasize enough here. I’ve had 4 people this week catch zero while they watched me boat over 30 combined.

Seems there is importance in the details here i cannot stress enough. DO NOT JIG. NO EXCESSIVE MOVEMENT BESIDES ONLY WHAT IS REQUIRED TO ‘TAP’ BOTTOM OCCASIONALLY…i.e. whatever is required to stay in the zone and nothing more!!!
As I slip side to size if i need to let out more line, i back-reel slowly vs opening the bail. They both achieve the same thing, but one is more subtle than the other.

I start employing this technique in late January when paddle tails start working and moxies go to the wayside (Pitching seems to slow down).

You’ll often find some fish on the outside of the current in these areas, resting. Don’t discount them entirely, Pitch a jig to them on occasion.

You’ll find this tactic is very challenging when other boats are around. I haven’t fished the main channel of P4 in a few weeks now…Hint* Other than the occasional passerby, don’t see anybody fishing some amazing spots.

Just zig zag back and forth in a small area, wafting your jigs in front of waiting walleye’s faces. Holding rod still and checking for bottom subtly. Everything slow and methodical until you feel that WACK! Fish On!

OK, Good luck fishing.

Thanks FBRM. Heading to P4 in an hour. Have been getting a few fish but nothing like you. Will try to slow things down as you suggest.

Great post. I can’t remember what this rig is called but it’s a popular one on Pool 4. It’s a killer on current seams. What depths are you finding them at right now?

Thank you for the words of wisdom. Will need to print this out, just isn’t enough room in my T-Rex size brain to store all the information you have supplied in your posts.

john23 wrote:

Great post. I can’t remember what this rig is called but it’s a popular one on Pool 4. It’s a killer on current seams. What depths are you finding them at right now?

Dubuque Rig. 15-20′ during the day and 7-12′ at sun-down/after dark. Shallow bite picks up once water gets above 40 consistently for me.

Which dropper has had the best hookup rate?

Did I read that correctly your bottom dropper with the heavier jig is 1′, the 1/16″ jig dropper is 3′ long, putting both at about the same depth, between right on the bottom to 4″ up depending on where you are holding it?

Awesome write up FBRM! Thank you.

BoatsHateMe wrote:

Which dropper has had the best hookup rate?

Did I read that correctly your bottom dropper with the heavier jig is 1′, the 1/16″ jig dropper is 3′ long, putting both at about the same depth, between right on the bottom to 4″ up depending on where you are holding it?

Don’t mean to steal his thunder, in my experience it changes all the time. Generally I feel they hit the dropper much harder than the trailer which may be because of the weight difference. I use a version where the trailer is an Aberdeen hook vs a jig. Many different combinations you can try.

Thanks for the info! I will give it a try and enjoy reading your posts.

Anyone ever use a hair jig on the back line? Was planning on trying it last weekend but never made it down.

Yes run whatever you like. Heck I ran yakima flasher for a little bit yesterday for the sake of trying.

The boat movement and bait movement is what im most emphasizing here… not that I’d tie on anything different.

Tom Albrecht wrote:

Aberdeen hook vs a jig

Absolutely. In my case, I don’t want that jig floating up any higher than the dropper jig due to the faster current and paddletails. But never be afraid to change it up for sure!

Thanks for all your contributions Tom!

Wingman99 wrote:

Anyone ever use a hair jig on the back line? Was planning on trying it last weekend but never made it down.

I have at certain times. Did this past week. There’s also a reason why I have hundreds of hand tied flies too!

Again lots of variables. Get on fish and work them over and over. Slow and subtle wins the race.

Things always change and I generally don’t spill beans while it’s happening but this is certainly a tactic that puts fish in the boat.
Good luck. Stay safe. High water.

BoatsHateMe wrote:

Which dropper has had the best hookup rate?

Which catches more? It varies.
That’s why you run it vs two rods doing the same thing because in this case both jigs are doing different things in every way. One is offering a bigger profile, occasionally pounds bottom, and when held steady is super steady… whereas the trailer is floating along dropping and rising, fluttering more than steady.

I pay attention to which jig and in what way my baits are being hit… example, am I catching them on the drop back to find bottom, and on which hook.. or am I getting them on the steady hold. Is it coming when I move forward at .2 or at .7? Or when im slipping sideways at .2 or .7? Or anywhere anyhow in between. What’s the strength of the current and how high off bottom was my trailer? ..

These are the details you should be paying attention to. Let the fish speak.

The Fish Whisperer

Here’s a question: how shallow can a guy effectively fish a Dubuque rig?

thanks fish whisperer! I always mean to tie up 3 ways but just too stubborn sometimes and its been tough getting bit lately….gonna give it a try next time for sure. its been tough finding areas that I don’t have to abuse the trolling motor batteries in spots I want to fish.

john23 wrote:

Here’s a question: how shallow can a guy effectively fish a Dubuque rig?

Depends on current or boat speed. This isn’t a depth question, it is related to how much current (or water speed, could be boat speed) is required to pull your trailer away from your dropper.

I’ve pitched my dubuque rigs into shallow 3′ of water on a break and caught fish this week, just reduced the size of my dropper to achieve the retrieve rate i wanted.

I’ve also ran it as described in this thread in as little as 4′ this past week. If you have enough current for your 3-way to separate itself while not pulling the boat forward, you can run it in any depth. If the current isn’t strong enough, you may need to introduce forward motion to accomplish the bait speed required to separate the 3-way.

Fish look for a desired current strength…That is found at any depth. It isn’t find the depth find the fish, it is find the *Right* current, find the fish.

Tom Albrecht wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>BoatsHateMe wrote:</div>
Which dropper has had the best hookup rate?

Did I read that correctly your bottom dropper with the heavier jig is 1′, the 1/16″ jig dropper is 3′ long, putting both at about the same depth, between right on the bottom to 4″ up depending on where you are holding it?

Don’t mean to steal his thunder, in my experience it changes all the time. Generally I feel they hit the dropper much harder than the trailer which may be because of the weight difference. I use a version where the trailer is an Aberdeen hook vs a jig. Many different combinations you can try.

I used this exact set up last weekend out of Everts. The owner let me in on it when I came in with nothing (same for a lot of people that day). Went back out and gave it a try and had 3 in the boat between the two of us within 20 minutes after figuring out which speed they wanted it at.

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

Fish look for a desired current strength…That is found at any depth. It isn’t find the depth find the fish, it is find the *Right* current, find the fish.

I have always had trouble fishing the river. Interesting point that I am going to try and remember next time out. Thanks!

FBRM, what is your preferred rod, reel, (main) line setup for this? I have my own, just curious as to yours.

Earlier in the year i run mono (8#) due to cold and switch to braid (10#) when air temps are regularly above freezing.
I run Limit Creek rods because the big eyelets tolerate the cold weather i fish.
My preferred limit creek is LCS66MF.
I also run the LCS83MLF quite a bit.

I run 10# mono leaders. Sometimes up them to 20# if i’m playing around heavy wood.

When you say find the right current, can you describe further? Is it relative to the other water around or you can tell by your trolling motor power required to stay still or go upstream at .3-.5 etc.

Thx in advance!

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

Earlier in the year i run mono (8#) due to cold and switch to braid (10#) when air temps are regularly above freezing.
I run Limit Creek rods because the big eyelets tolerate the cold weather i fish.
My preferred limit creek is LCS66MF.
I also run the LCS83MLF quite a bit.

I run 10# mono leaders. Sometimes up them to 20# if i’m playing around heavy wood.

This thread has been quite a clinic, thanks Andy.

I just got the Limit Creek telescoping rod, is that this one? LCS83ML

I’m just trying to keep up here.

I don’t fish the river, but I’m digesting tips that would apply to “slack waters” too.

holstc wrote:

When you say find the right current, can you describe further? Is it relative to the other water around or you can tell by your trolling motor power required to stay still or go upstream at .3-.5 etc.

Thx in advance!

Not sure I could describe.
There are many things I consider before I know what I’m seeing on my SI is positively walleye.

There’s no easy summation to 1000’s upon 1000’s of hours on the water that will point you in the direction to finding and catching fish often.

You might consider understanding the best fish finding technology first… then applying all you know to catching fish that you can find… and eventually you’ll learn things others cannot explain.

BRILLIANT: “Let the fish speak.”
–FBRM

Let me know when the caps and t-shirts are ready for order.

Haha. Go ahead and market it.

Fish don’t have to bite to speak either…

For example: When you ask a woman a question and you get the silent treatment…Is there a message to be received?

Always take note of things not working just the same as things that are working. Many days i learn what not to do!

Try this…Results…Nuttin
Try That…Results…Nuttin
About 15 things later…Ok they’re not biting!

Great information FBRM. Here’s the way I manage my Dubuque rigs. Instead of using a standard three-way swivel, I tie a snap to my main line. I tie a crane swivel to the dropper jig line and also to the line that I’m using for my trailer. This makes if easy and quick to change the dropper jig and the trailer bait. I store my dropper jigs by sticking them onto a foam pad such as a pad that used to kneel on. The keep them organized and tangle-free. For my trailer line, I use a Tackle Buddy that I’ve drilled holes into. I stick the crane swivel into the holes in the Tackle Buddy. I use Dubuque rigs all year. In the summer, on the trailer I often use a 4 size hook and bait it with a leech or crawler. Here’s some pictures that should make what I’m talking about more clear. In the summer months, I’m not hovering like FBRM described. I may actually be pulling them across the faces of wing dams at 1-2 mph.

Thanks FBRM.

Tom wrote:

Generally I feel they hit the dropper much harder than the trailer which may be because of the weight difference

I agree Tom, it does typically feel like they hit the dropper jig much harder. But what I think is actually happening is that the the dropper jig has direct tension and is directly in a straight line to the main line and hence to the rod tip. But the trailer bait line may come off the main line at an angle and may be somewhat slack. So when the fish whacks the dropper jig, the shock is transmitted more directly to the rod tip. But when the fish whacks the trailer, especially when the trailer line is longer, the shock is not nearly as direct. When I feel my rod start to load up without the sharp whack, the fish is usually on the trailer line. But I do run trailers that are over 60″ long at times. Either that or they just hit the dropper jig much harder.

Boone