2015 Silverado issue

picklerick wrote:

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I am curious whether they will turn to larger hybrid engines? They seem more practical. It will take a while.

Hybrid is really the way to go. Few options now in trucks though. Ram and Toyota only options I think.

If I do get another Silverado, I’ll be getting an extended warranty of some kind.

Wait was because we were going to have one built properly but apparently that’s not an option anymore so now getting a GM reman with a 2 year unlimited mile warranty. No idea what the wait looks like now, maybe quicker. Don’t really care tbh we’re already shopping to get rid of the Tahoe before it ends up doing the same thing. Hopefully my wife can be convinced to get into a Toyota. Might just trade em both in on a brand new tundra or something, considering we’ve got a car too.

GM reman will be 36mo/100k mile warranty.

My guy is telling me 24mo unlimited miles. Not that it matters, I’ll be getting rid of this truck well before we reach any of that. Already looking for something else, probably an older 3/4 ton gasser. Would suit my use case well

There was no need for GM to run the 6l80e at 200+ F, and the have the TC slipping constantly. My 2010 6l80 ran 260k without a hiccup, but it didn’t have the stupid thermostat or it’s own TCM. They took a perfectly fine light duty transmission and gave it a planned obsolescence makeover for 2014 and up. I can’t support that kind of business model anymore.

KPE spitting facts! That’s a recipe for disaster!

I just talked to the transmission shop. My truck should be ready on Thursday.
I asked him are there any 1/2 ton pickups with decent transmissions? He only talked about Ford/GM/Ram. He said Ford’s were better by a significant margin (he sees the fewest), then Ram which was closer to GM than Ford but they are more expensive to rebuild especially 3/4 and 1 ton and then there’s GM.

Synopsis and update on my truck. 2015 Silverado 1500, 6-speed tranny with 99,000 miles. Low frequency sound/rumble with very slight vibration.

Summary of things tried in chronological order.
My regular mechanic looked over steering, suspension, wheel bearings, drive shafts and u-joints and didn’t find anything.

Current tires (Michelin Defender LTX-MS) had 6/32 tread depth. Had them rotated and balanced, no change.

Had new tires (Michelin Defender LTX-MS2) installed, no change.

Took it back to my normal mechanic, looked over everything again, multiple mechanics, nothing found. Thought its “rotational”, maybe in drive train. He didn’t think it’s a safety issue and doesn’t see it as something that would casue a breakdown. Drive it ’til it gets worse

Took it to a reputable transmission shop, they diagnosed the torque converter starting to act up. Transmission cooling lines leaking. With the known issues with this truck I had them replace the torque converter and cooking lines and rebuild the tranny. No change but 3-year 100,000 mile warranty.

Took it back to them. Owner and head tech drove it and reproduced it. Head tech said it was something harmonic. Drive shafts or tires/wheels. Told him it did it with old tires, old tires rotated and balanced and new tires. With that info he said to look at the drive shafts. They took them out, sent to a drive shaft shop for rebalancing. While the drive shafts were out, they also looked over steering, suspension (starting to sag some) and underbody looking for anything. Nothing found. The drive shaft shop said the main drive shaft was “off” quite a bit, the front one not too bad. This resulted in maybe a slight reduction in the “low frequency sound/rumble with very slight vibration” but nothing significant.
Transmission shop owner said he thinks its rotational but doesn’t think it is a safety issue and doesn’t see it as something that would casue a breakdown. Drive it ’til it gets worse. Is this phrase in the ASE training manual??

I am going to replace the shocks/struts. At least I can do that. On my last truck I put in Bilsteins? What model should I put in? Majority of driving is paved roads with some field/back roads in the fall and frozen lakes in the winter. Will have this truck at most 2 more years.
Time to go fishing. Any other ideas??

Trade it and move on . Sorry man that sucks throwing a bunch of money at a problem . That would drive me crazy .

I’m crossing my fingers that my 2015 Sierra lasts. I did replace the tranny lines. GM updated that part over the last couple years, it seems they all leak.
On another note, how do you like the Michelin Defender tires? Going go get rid of my noisy Cooper LT tires soon. Hoping I can find a quieter tire with a little higher load rating than 114.

The last set I had were fine. ~50,000 miles and still 6/32″ tread. No noise issues. The new ones have road noise at 20-40 mph that wasn’t there with my old tires so I don’t think that is related to the other problem. Going to contact Discount tire this week to either get a new set or try another brand.

Fwiw we put defenders on my wife’s Tahoe last year and they are wayyyy noisier than I remember my old ltx m/s 2 tires being. Like I cannot believe how noisy they are sometimes. I just assume it’s the new, cheaper compound used in the defender but who knows.

Can’t say enough good things about the Bilstein shocks. The 4600’s are great, 5100’s are a little stiff if you run them anywhere but factory height. At the factory setting Bilstein tells us they are basically identical to 4600 so might as well save the dough and grab 4600 if you’re not lifting the vehicle.

May not have to go as “good” as Bilsteins. Anyone use the KYB Excel G? A little research showed these are what are put on a lot of new cars at the factories now.
I’ll try to see what are on the truck now. Tranny guy thought Ranchero but I’m not sure.

They are ranchos if it’s a z71. Sloppy and weak imo, but if you like the factory ride just get those. Bilstein 4600 are like $300 for a pair I can’t imagine the ranchos are any cheaper, it’s just how do you like the truck to ride

Netguy wrote:

Transmission shop owner said he thinks its rotational but doesn’t think it is a safety issue and doesn’t see it as something that would casue a breakdown. Drive it ’til it gets worse. Is this phrase in the ASE training manual

Not exactly. However if something is impossible to track down, it may be more cost effective to wait until it’s worse to be able to find the issue rather than throw money at it. Sorry to hear you still are having issues. I would like to offer to look at it for you, however if this many guys have been after it and are not finding it I’m not sure we could either. I will shoot you a text later.

This hits home. I had a 2014 Silverado that had phantom vibrations I could never fix – did tires, driveshaft, shocks and ultimately needed a TC/transmission at 130k. I traded the truck in.

Got a 2012 Suburban w/ 100k on it (apparently it has the same transmission). I’ve been driving that for the past 3.5yrs and yesterday the TC failed (212k). Now I’m not sure what to do. I’ve been quoted around $5,000 to replace the TC/Trans by a couple shops – do you dump $5k into a 12yr old sub w/ 212,000 miles?? It’s clean and runs well, but then what’s next – lifters I wouldn’t be surprised? Hard to say. Challenge is I’m not sure what to replace it with. Used suburban 2017-2019 or so w/ 100k and they still want $30k (and I read those trans fail too). Bleh

Now I’m not sure what to do… Sorry, just had to vent.

I feel for you Pete. I’m going to replace my shocks just because they need it. I hope the engine doesn’t crap out before I get rid of it.

I think the obvious answer for everyone is to just go with Toyota trucks/SUV’s. If you don’t want turbos get one a little older. Just make sure you keep a box of Kleenex handy for every time you fill up and calculate MPG.

Well a $6,600 torque converter and tranny bill buys 1,885 gallons of gas at $3.50/gallon.

Add spongy brakes to the list of gmc should-be recalls to my truck problems. They reprogram the computer that supposedly gets it along enough to be out of warranty then bammo no brakes at idle speeds

That sucks pete! I had to crunch some serious #’s when mine went out, 2015 w 160k on it, worth it for me. Hoping the repairs stop at some point. Can’t come to pony up the dough for new

LabDaddy1 wrote:

I think the obvious answer for everyone is to just go with Toyota trucks/SUV’s. If you don’t want turbos get one a little older. Just make sure you keep a box of Kleenex handy for every time you fill up and calculate MPG.

After reading the past post’s I thought the same thing. Do some research and try a different brand. I’m sticking w Toyota until they do me wrong. Can’t go wrong w a V8 tundra or Sequoia

I’ve been following this thread to see what would have played out, I have to ask, did anyone ever check the steering system for play?? if it has electric steering are the sensors in alignment?? if memory serves me, there was TSB on the Colorado and Canyon line of trucks that reprogrammed the steering but not certain it applies here.
Is it an exhaust rumble that only occurs at speed and load??
Were the axle flanges checked to ensure one wasnt bent after striking a curb and are now out of square?? believe me you can bend an axle between the bearing and flange, seen it more than once.
I would like to see this truck and drive it, not saying I could solve it but I would at least try.

LabDaddy1 wrote:

I think the obvious answer for everyone is to just go with Toyota trucks/SUV’s. If you don’t want turbos get one a little older. Just make sure you keep a box of Kleenex handy for every time you fill up and calculate MPG.

Toyota just announced a recall of ’22 and ’23 Tundras with the twin turbo V6. Debris left in the engine during manufacturing is causing failures. Reading through other forums it sounds like the recall could expand to ’24s and the hybrid model using the same engine. I hope they get it figured out. A Tundra hybrid was at the top of the list for my next truck.

That isnt good Joe! Im sure they will figure it out quickly though but shocking it dates back to 22 and are just now addressing it.
Reminds me of when the Arctic Cat XX came out and it had the yamaha motor in it. Motor was bullet proof normally but they started dropping like crazy. They found out that some product they used in the manufacturing process was left in the engine and it was plugging the oil filter with this massive sludge and starving the engine of oil and toasting them. Some guys figured it out on their own and changed the oil right away and never had an issue.

What about a bad motormount? It’s something to consider. I had a vehicle do someting similar, replaced a bunch of obvious stuff, the shop finally tracked to a bad motormount. It wasn’t obvious that it was broken either. The motor never jumped around or anything when you tried powering braking it.