2015 Lund 1625 fury XL

Hey guys I have what I believe to be galvanic corrosion starting on my boat, I have an anode on my mercury outboard and it seems to be in great shape, do I need another anode on my boat? I’m new to aluminum boats I’ll attach some pics of the spots

Just delt w this on a 2007 alumacraft. Unfortunately those bubbles are probably caused by a wet transom. I would bring it to a lund dealer and get a professional opinion.

By looking at your pictures I would agree with PmB. Inside of the transom on a Lund you already have either 2 or 4 anadodes. But once the wood begins to decay they do little good. Inside of each of those blisters you will find powder corrosion that will only get worse. I have seen transoms rot out both from being wet as well as what appears to be dry rotting.

Also looking at your pictures you have what appears to be deeper bolt indentations and wavy transom skin. This is also common with a failing transom.

1999-2016 Lunds are known to have transom issues. The wood they used during those years is not holding up.

Any recommendations on replacing the transom? Go composite? Pour in? Plywood that is actually sealed up ?

Thanks for the input guys

Travis Babineau wrote:

Any recommendations on replacing the transom? Go composite? Pour in? Plywood that is actually sealed up ?

Thanks for the input guys

Pour in is the best replacement if you are planning on keeping the boat

I believe Lund is covering some of these if you are the original owner. Lot’s of info on FB if you use that.

We pour all of the transoms we replace. If done properly it will adhere to the transom better and last longer. Then after fixing and treating the metal we repaint them to look like new.

Travis,if Lund wont do anything for you reach out to Scenic,my starcraft is at his place now getting a full makeover.
New paint,floor,foam,vinyl,carpet,and a pour in transom.
When I get it back Im hanging a new Suzuki 115 with all the trimmings on it.
I am not sure how far from Bemidji you are but Im 500 if that says anything about his work.

Minority opinion here but I’d run it for a while unless it’s flexing and cracking . Can you see it anywhere to confirm it’s actually transom rot ? How often do you use the boat ? How many hours are on the engine ?

Scenic wrote:

We pour all of the transoms we replace. If done properly it will adhere to the transom better and last longer. Then after fixing and treating the metal we repaint them to look like new.

Scenic does awesome work, he did my boat after Sheldon set me up with his contact. And he will be doing my transom as well in my crestliner. Jeff and his son are great people. Highly recommend

Andy,by the time you see flex its dang late in the game and the transom skin will be stretched.
You can see that now with the rippling.
Motor hours have zero to do with what shape a transom is in.
Not knocking your thoughts,just trying to help you understand whats going on.
And yes,lund has had crap transom wood for years now.

Thank you for the kind words. We have been extremely busy up here. Just finishing up a 2016 Lund Pro V with a bad transom and paint. It is amazing how much stuff needs to be removed just to work on that area. Every day is a new challenge.

The addition of the new spray booth has opened many doors for us. The smell of the product we use to pour transom’s and paint is pretty bad without one.

Iowaboy’s boat is going to be stripped down to the hull on the inside, dashes will be re-made to accommodate his new gauges/controls and everything in the inside of that boat will be replaced with new. We are also working on the dings and giving the outside a face lift as well. Our goal is to make that look better than the day it was sold new. Color and graphics will match that new Suzuki he is going to put on the back of that boat.

Rebuild, renew, repower and reuse.

Unfortunately I’m in Canada, no one locally that does it within 100mi of me, so sounding like I’m going to have to give it a try myself. Would love to go the pour route as it looks the least time consuming but the cheapest I can find the carbon pro is $500 for 5 gal. So looks like I may try to get the composite transom from Lund and go that route.