1-24v or 2-12v lithium batteries

Bearcat89 wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>West Brown wrote:</div>
1 x 24v always.
2 x 12v in series is just bad planning.
That was typical for lead acid batteries. But these are LiFePo4 and have BMS’s. Unless you want to disconnect them for maintenance every few months. (Which defeats the point of buying batteries that are designed for no maintenance)

Not bad planning at all. I bought 2 12s just in case one went to sleep and I could jump it back to life. As well as they were way cheaper then 1 24v. Running 1 jumper wire to make 24v literally take 10 seconds.

That was my thoughts as well. If a battery goes to sleep I wanted a quick way to get it woke back up. 2 – 12’s does that.
Not to mention including my electronics battery I would have to run 2 different chargers. This way I can still run my 3 bank charger.
Now if they are below freezing I have a different plan for charging.

That was my thoughts as well. If a battery goes to sleep I wanted a quick way to get it woke back up. 2 – 12’s does that.
Not to mention including my electronics battery I would have to run 2 different chargers. This way I can still run my 3 bank charger.
Now if they are below freezing I have a different plan for charging.
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When we were on rainy th last night I threw a heated blanket on low in my battery compartment, after about 45 minutes it was noticeably warmer in their and then I plugged them in. That worked for me, but I thought about the heated trays guys use for their campers, but the blanket I had on hand, and it seemed to work

Received the 3 Li Time batteries today.
Will be putting them in the boat tonight and then it’s a matter of the first nice weekend I will be out on the water to see how they do.

75lbs and 300AH of battery or my guess is 36 volts and 100AH. Very Nice !!

In 2021 I replace all of my series 31 AGM’s (1 starting, 3 trolling motor) with Ionic LFP’s. Admittedly I used to be very biased against using a single 24 or 36 volt battery for the trolling motor until I realized it was only based on my situation, hence why should I care. My Ranger had a MinnKota MK-460PC smart charger, no lithium charge function but AGM. Ionic told me I could use the AGM settings to charge them. As well my Ranger has a battery switch (which I used a couple times a summer in Canada) that switches in one of your trolling motors to start a dead main battery. That only works if you have a separate 12V trolling motor battery, which is why I went with 3-12V’s. Funny but my main starting and electronics battery is the 125AH and since installing I have never had to use the switch to start the motor after anchor locked on a spot with 3 depth finders/livewell/baitwell going for hours. Lightening took out a bank on my charger a few years back so I bought the new MK-460PCL with the lithium charging algorithm. What is great about it that it will wake up a discharged LFP battery. Last year something went wrong with my 125AH and after 38 months they replaced it free. Good luck with your new system, you will love it. Interesting as my batteries are in the floor and when I replaced them the boat porpoised like crazy. My dealer said losing that weight affected the hull performance, move some weight up front. I did that and back to how it performed with the AGM’s. Based on the guy at Ionic, his recommendation to me was I could leave the batteries in the boat all winter and leave the charger plugged in. Once charged the BMS shuts off the charge anyway. Finally figured out to turn off the main power switch on the boat first to prevent any stray currents from discharging the battery.

James Almquist wrote:

75lbs and 300AH of battery or my guess is 36 volts and 100AH. Very Nice !!

I run a 24 volt trolling motor battery and a stand alone battery for my graphs.
The 2 trolling motor batteries are just in front of my consoles and the graph battery is in the back next to my starting battery. So I will be dropping weight on both ends of the boat.

Hey full draw where did you buy them and what kind of warranty do they have?

Full draw wrote:

I run a 24 volt trolling motor battery and a stand alone battery for my graphs.
The 2 trolling motor batteries are just in front of my consoles and the graph battery is in the back next to my starting battery. So I will be dropping weight on both ends of the boat.

Boat will ride like your missing a person with that much weight loss.

gim wrote:

Hey full draw where did you buy them and what kind of warranty do they have?

I bought strait from Li time. The batteries shipped out of Houston.
They have a 5 year warranty on all batteries greater than 20Ah.
Total bill including shipping was $825.26 for the 3 heated 100Ah batteries.

Thanks

Thanks for the replies. After consulting a buddy who dabbles in lithium builds decided to go with a cheapo 24v 100ah battery with bluetooth and am upgrading my onboard charger to a dual bank 12v/24v charger designed for lithium. Time will tell how it holds up but since the cells in the battery are replaceable, I should be able to keep it going the full 10 years. There will be a 20amp 3 bank cabelas charger in the classifieds soon.

I’m probably going to make the jump too for my TM. My group 31 Deep Cycle batteries are tired.

I am fine going with ONE 24V battery vs 2-12’s as I keep a charged booster pack on board at all times plus have a dual purpose cranking battery on board that will stay AGM.

My Questions:

1. Is there any reason to install a new on-board lithium charger for x1 – 24V battery, or if I’m willing to just plug in a portable charger to the battery when needed won’t that be sufficent? One flip of a lever and I have access to my TM batteries without moving anything the way I have things currently set up.

2. With a 80# 24V trolling motor, what kind of AHs should I be looking for? I fish the river and want to be able to hold a spot to fish, but am not someone who sits spotlocked in heavy current for hours on end.

Bucky I went with a pair of 100AH 12 volts over a single 24v

I was able to cram (2) 12V group 24 100AH Litimes into my Rebel’s tiny front compartment. I have a crazy amount of battery capacity compared to what was available just a few years ago.

12 volt chargers are easier to find, the batteries are smaller/lighter, etc. I guess I really don’t see any benefit of having a solo 24V battery???

A single 24v is better for cell balancing since you have a single BMS. That being said, for most guys in boats and that use case it’s probably not that big a deal to go 2 12Vs especially if space is a factor like in B-Mans scenario. I actually had to do a little cutting to get my 24v to fit. As for charger you can definitely get away with not buying a new onboard. In fact if your someone that likes to keep your starter battery topped off all the time you could actually damage your lithium by inadvertently keeping it topped off all the time. You want your lithium to be between 40%-80% during periods of non-use. However, this can be avoided by using bluetooth apps to limit the charge capacity.

TLDR go with whatever battery combo fits and no don’t feel obligated to upgrade your onboard charger if you’ll just use an external charger.

Bucky if you go the single 24volt route and buy a LiTime I would just get a LiTime charger.
The charger will come with an Anderson connector so you would never have to undo the M8 bolts. Just plug in connectors and charge.
Also a lithium battery can be charged quicker than lead acid. I would go 20 amp charger if you go with a 24 volt battery.

I didn’t buy batteries with Blue Tooth but I did by batteries with built in heating. I installed a digital volt gauge to be able to tell rough percentage of charge.

I would want 100 ah. Even if you don’t drain them you could be looking at less times you would have to charge them.

For those shopping, here’s the link to Litimes “like new” discounted batteries.

Pretty wild that you can get a base model 100AH group 31 lithium for $109

B-man wrote:

For those shopping, here’s the link to Litimes “like new” discounted batteries.

Pretty wild that you can get a base model 100AH group 31 lithium for $109

<div class=”ido-oembed-wrap”>LiTime Like New Batteries</div>

I just bought a 12v 100ah group24 to use as a electronics battery. 120 bucks was pretty solid.

I have a 80ah 24v and I have never used more then 10% in a single outing. I am a bass fisherman so my use is working structure at .5mph or less and lots of spot lock. I could have saved $500 and got the 50ah for my use but I never have to worry about having enough charge or constantly changing mine either. Also I was told that by having more battery than you need it is better for the battery and should last years longer.

I would also highly recommend getting one with Bluetooth. Much easier to monitor the battery and you get real time info when you’re on the water so you know how much run time is left at your current usage.

I have an 80ah 24v lithium and its great. I did go with the charger made for it. Im not sure where guys are charging to be able to pull 20amps?? All my garage circuits are only 15amp

Youbetcha wrote:

I have an 80ah 24v lithium and its great. I did go with the charger made for it. Im not sure where guys are charging to be able to pull 20amps?? All my garage circuits are only 15amp

You’re forgetting the voltage difference, not charging at 120v

Youbetcha wrote:

I have an 80ah 24v lithium and its great. I did go with the charger made for it. Im not sure where guys are charging to be able to pull 20amps?? All my garage circuits are only 15amp

24 volts 20 amps = 120 volt 4 amps

Youre telling me all this time i could have been charging both my batteries with 10amp chargers instead of doing one at a time

Youbetcha wrote:

Youre telling me all this time i could have been charging both my batteries with 10amp chargers instead of doing one at a time

I don’t want to be that guy but yeah you could have. lol

Well learned something new